Junkers Ju87B-2 ‘Stuka’ Scale 1/24

[Guest]

Well, I suppose

I never try it O_o

Anyway if we are talking about varnish, you need a fine coat...maybe I should try to thinner it a bite, and paint more than a single coat...

I have a piece of plastic where to try new tips, can say something you tomorrow, give me some hours

[Alan 45]

Thanks for that Polux mate , I do know there are two types of Vallejo paint , model air and model colour , I use model colour to brush paint but I find it's not good for large areas and it pulls the paint like tamiya acrylics do so I just use it for small areas like wheel bays

[Guest]

Good morning Alan.

I don't see any difference mate....O_o

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Ps. with the varnish there is only a option (no difference between brush or airbrush)

[Guest]

Hi friends

This Morning I have painted the aluminium coat. I used the Vallejo one....the Alclad (Dull Aluminium is a good option) but I prefer the acrylic one. The reason is the chipping effect that I want to do. On the alclad, the lacquer doesn’t work so well over it and you need to add a varnish coat before. I don’t like to work with varnish and the aluminium isn’t the final coat....so I choice the first option.

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This is the result.

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[Guest]

Then I have mixed aluminium with some drops of burnt umber.

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And I have painted a subtle pre shade effect.

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[Guest]

The last step is an enamel wash. I always use one of those products for weathered and old aluminium. I thin with white spirit !!!

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Maybe on the photo you don’t see exactly the final result, but now we have a nice aluminium effect without that shinny reflection.

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Thanks for looking

[Alan 45]

Good morning Alan.I don't see any difference mate....o_O

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Ps. with the varnish there is only a option (no difference between brush or airbrush)

Good morning Polux and thank you for the pic

Do you thin the paint if your brushing ? I had some problems with Vallejo when I painted the hunter , I couldn't get an even coat and it appeared to dry very quickly

[Guest]

That's very interesting Polux, it's good to see different ways of doing things.

The Stuka is looking great!

[Guest]

Good morning Polux and thank you for the picDo you thin the paint if your brushing ? I had some problems with Vallejo when I painted the hunter , I couldn't get an even coat and it appeared to dry very quickly

Have you tried using a retarder Alan? I've found Vallejo's one to be very good when brush painting, especially during this hot weather.

[Alan 45]

Have you tried using a retarder Alan? I've found Vallejo's one to be very good when brush painting, especially during this hot weather.

I haven't mate can you give me a good make so I can try it as I've never used one before

[Guest]

Well Vallejo make one that's perfectly acceptable, although I use Windsor & Newton acrylic retarder. It's very good & if bought online, cheaper per ml than the Vallejo.

It also works with any other brand, including Tamiya.

Thinning with screenwash works too, although not as well as using a retarder.

[Alan 45]

Well Vallejo make one that's perfectly acceptable, although I use Windsor & Newton acrylic retarder. It's very good & if bought online, cheaper per ml than the Vallejo.It also works with any other brand, including Tamiya.

Thinning with screenwash works too, although not as well as using a retarder.

Thanks very much Patrick I'll take the wife out to lunch tomorrow for an excuse to but more supply's

[stona]

Mmmm....is perfect colour reference Steve Thank you very much.Looks like a green with a "touch" of brown....not?

The Germans usually described RLM 71 as 'dark green' but I agree that there is a slight olive or brown hue to it. It looks more green in isolation, the other colour next to it seems to make our eyes see it as more olive.

The other green, RLM 70, was usually described as 'black green' which is self explanatory. It is very dark.

Don't put too much weight on the verbal descriptions. They varied from manufacturer to manufacturer and the whole point of a numeric system (in which colours were matched to samples provided) was to avoid the inevitable human interpretation of a verbal description.

Here are some photos of colour chips from two most reputable sources (Ullmann and Merrick). Given the vagaries of photography, computer displays etc these can only give an idea of the colours and how similar they were. Nonetheless you may find them a useful reference.

I've often said that exactly matching 1940s colour on a model is a pointless exercise. What we can do is use our knowledge of the original colours to put something on our models that looks realistic and is artistically (not scientifically) pleasing to our eyes. I will never tell anyone what colour they should paint their model, it's hard enough working out what colour I want to paint my own

Ullmann:



Merrick:



BTW it's looking very good so far

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks Steve I have two "possibilities" on my bench.....I will paint a plastic piece and choice the better one

Cheers

Polux

[Guest]

Hi friends!

I don’t stop today :P

The first step has been the chipping effect. I have used the AK product, that I thin with distil water. Is not a tank, my advice is create the effect with your softer brush.....we are looking for a subtle chipping.

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This is the result.

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