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I've been thinking about this wing Dihedral problem.Ive decided I will make a wing spar when I build mine.I've got some 2mm plastic card left over from when I built a vacform kit a few years ago.Just need to find a head on view of the wing to get the correct angle.Then I need to work out where to fit it so it won't get in the way of any internal parts.
Well I've been doing the filing on this over the last few days and it's not easy considering the size of some gaps
[ATTACH]94518.IPB[/ATTACH]
Those fines on the top of the wings look out of scale to me but that could be the size of it [ATTACH]94519.IPB[/ATTACH]
the front of the canopy has a fair size gap on the starboard side and the front [ATTACH]94520.IPB[/ATTACH]
you have to fill in two of the mg apatures and that takes a bit of build up to get them flat , I still have work to do here [ATTACH]94521.IPB[/ATTACH]
the Aboukir intake takes quite a bit of filling and seeing as this is not in the instructions it's best to take a look at photos to get the position correct [ATTACH]94522.IPB[/ATTACH]
a very large gap here on both sides that just would not close up so I filled it instead and I'm hopping my paint job will cover the worst of it
This is very interesting Alan, I'd like to build one of these except I haven't the room for it!
My 1/72 Lancaster is in a box, with wings separate, which is a shame. I am thinking of hanging it from the ceiling of the spare room, like a mobile. Near the ceiling it might not collect much dust.
Well I've been doing the filing on this over the last few days and it's not easy considering the size of some gaps[ATTACH]95606[/ATTACH] Those fines on the top of the wings look out of scale to me but that could be the size of it [ATTACH]95607[/ATTACH] the front of the canopy has a fair size gap on the starboard side and the front [ATTACH]95608[/ATTACH] you have to fill in two of the mg apatures and that takes a bit of build up to get them flat , I still have work to do here [ATTACH]95609[/ATTACH] the Aboukir intake takes quite a bit of filling and seeing as this is not in the instructions it's best to take a look at photos to get the position correct [ATTACH]95610[/ATTACH] a very large gap here on both sides that just would not close up so I filled it instead and I'm hopping my paint job will cover the worst of it
I've got a tube of Squadron Green filler reserved for my Spitfire build!.
Painting has begun and I've added an oil wash and I wasn't happy with the look so I decided to wipe it all off with a kitchen towl and this is how it turned out [ATTACH]94593.IPB[/ATTACH]
Now I've painted the top in mid stone acrylic and given it an oil wash of burnt umber [ATTACH]94641.IPB[/ATTACH]
as you can see it's very rough looking and I've left the excess blue overspill on it to see how that looks when I add the oil dry brush [ATTACH]94642.IPB[/ATTACH]
ive now added the oil dry brush to the port wing and fuse as you can see it's taken out the rough brush marks of the umber oil wash and gave it a faded look as these had and you get a softer finish than using acrylics , the oil colours I used for this were yellow okra with a white , now the only problem with using oils is they take an awfull long time to dry so you can only do one side at a time , I've been quite stingy with this side so hopefully the other side will be ready by tomorrow
There's a way to reduce the drying time with oil washes Alan - instead of using white spirit as a thinner, use lighter fluid instead. It dries much quicker due to its higher flashpoint.
An acrylic protective coat is a must though, as sometimes the fluid affects the base coat if not fully cured.
Cheers Patrick I'll give that a try , your right about the protective coat but sometimes that can make the paint look worn and chipped as it did here so it has its advantages [ATTACH]94643.IPB[/ATTACH]
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