Academy 1/32 F16i SUFA
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I have left it overnight before now and, you are right, it does flow and droop. But I found that it is quick to adjust it, pushing it back into position.
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Masking is off and decals done.
The decals are Cartograph so as you would expect they are well printed and lay down well. There are however a lot of them and they are closely printed on two sheets, some almost touch each other and this provides a few issues. When I say lot, I do mean a lot, many are very tiny indeed. I don't have the patience and I don't enjoy decaling so I am not bothering with the very smallest that can hardly be seen and focus on the more striking and colourful. Putting decals on the stores reminds me why I prefer WW2 aircraft!!! Some, the Python missiles in particular, have a lot of decals and there is a lot of detail. I found applying all the decals to the Pythons a massive challenge and in the end only put a few on these.
Here is a view of the cockpit, without the instrument panels. I will add those a bit later.
A view of the model with decals applied.
I have a new tool for panel line accentuation, I got it from John's shop its made by DSPAE so its good quality. Its like an old fashioned very fine fountain pen nib that you dip into the wash then touch it to the panel line and press allowing the wash to flow. It is very precise and leaves less surplus wash on the model than a brush. DSPAE also provide a wash eraser and I tried this too. It is less prone to dig the dried wash out from a panel line in the way a cotton bud or brush can do. This is my first use of these and I am very pleased, the applicator is best used with enamel washes or an oil wash, I used a Mig enamel wash myself. A couple of recommendations though:
1/ make sure the wash is dry but don't leave it too long.
2/ wipe always in the direction of airflow
3/ keep a cotton bud handy, sometimes it can be useful to soak up and spills and I found it useful to do an overall wipe at the end.
Below a picture of the model on which I have done the panel lines on the right hand side (as you look at the picture). As you can see even with much less overspill there is enough to provide a patina over the fresh paint that takes away the newness appearance.
The panel lining tools. The eraser can be cleaned up and there are spare rubber ends and nibs.
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On the final stages.
and a problem.
The canopy does not come close to matching the canopy prop.
Below the prop matches, as far as I can determine, the instructions as does the part in the canopy that is meant to match it.
As you can see it misses by a large margin.
All the rest of the final fittings are in place. I will sleep on the problem and return to it fresh tomorrow.
Above how she now looks. almost finished.
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No, it’s fully intact. Tomorrow I will try to detach it and put it back at a more upright angle and a little higher.👍 1Comment
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I was unable to match up the canopy prop with the canopy, whatever i tried. I did manage to remove it and spent ages trying too 'work it'.
So I thought I would glue the canopy into place but... its a poor fit and at this stage in a build you cannot take the necessary remedial action as it would mess up the finish. I therefore had no choice but to glue it into place, open without the prop. Make no mistake, that was not an easy task!!!!! I had great difficulty in getting it to stay in place in the right position. However, I got there.
Its a pity as until the canopy this build went so well. The only problems really were the poor instructions.
But, its done
Here are a picture of the cockpit with the Quinta Studio set.
I will do a completed thread soon.
I really nice kit overall but if its a single seat F16 you want in 1/32 then it has to be the superb Tamiya.Attached Files👍 2Comment
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A wonderful result Barry. A shame about the canopy strut. I looked at photos of the F-16D canopy. Your strut looks the right angle, is munted in the correct spot. I can only assume it was too short. Overall though, it's fantastic, lovely paint workComment
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