HK Models 1/32 scale D. H. Mosquito

[Guest]

eager to see how these seatbelts shape up

[BarryW]

eager to see how these seatbelts shape up

These seatbelts are not shaping up.  


I am sure that if you can get them together they would be impressive. Indeed I have seen some pics of them and they are.  The problem is getting them built up.


One fabric part looks different to the instructions and would need cutting down to fit the pe but I did not get to try as the pe pinged off the tweezers somewhere never to be seen again.  


Another part had to sandwich a fabric end but after 30 mins of turning the air blue that was another part that went ping never to be seen again!!!  


I do not recommend these at all and I regret having further sets for the rest of my stash  


The Eduard set is now in the bin.  Great in theory but hopeless in practise.  Consequently I am turning to the kit pe.  


Prime first ..





 I will post when I have the cockpit a bit more advanced.  

[Vaughan]

I've not had any problems with the HGW belts apart from being really fiddly but that's the case with all belts. When completed they look very realistic.

[stona]

I've used the HGW and RB Productions harnesses. They are both equally fiddly! I have a preference for the RB belts, I prefer the paper material, but they are both good looking, whichever you choose. They both take some work with the magnifier and tweezers


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

we all have our difficulties with stuff mate, and those seatbelts looked seriously fiddly, especially with those individual buckles. A reason why I am sticking with my normal eduard ones.....


Hope the PE ones turn out fine

[BarryW]

getting on well with the cockpit....


I have the instrument panel decals to apply and the seatbelts to finish off by painting the buckles silver and fitting them.


I used AKI Dark Brown Wash, drybrushed with a light grey and in some limited places that would be metal, with aluminium.   AKI European Earth and Dark Earth pigments were brrushed on the cockpit floor to replicate dust and wear.  I will also need to apply a wash to the seat belts.

[Ian M]

Looking very sharp Barry. Those harnesses are a fiddle but they are worth the effort.

[BarryW]

I have been progressing with the Airscale instrument panel decals.  They are small and fiddly, take a lot of time, but are very effective and worthwhile.


I bought, via Amazon, a cupwarmer to keep the decal water warm.  I boiled some water and placed it in a bowl on the cup warmer, allowed it to rest for 15 minutes while the boiled water cooled down and then the water is kept at just the right temperature by the cupwarmer. It is always a problem with long decalling sessions keeping the water warm and I am too lazy to keep changing the water when it cools.  You need a container that sits flat to the cupwarmer so there is a good surface to transfer heat.


here is the cupwarmer:





and with my water bowl...





Here is a pic of the instrument panel so far.  Hopefully I will finish it off tonight...

[Vaughan]

Looking good Barry. That cup warmer looks like it will come in really handy. 

[stona]

The cup warmer is a genius idea Barry. I've been changing the water every 15 minutes for years. I'm definitely getting one of those !


The IP looks good, well worth the effort.


Cheers


Steve

[papa 695]

Nice work Barry, but if I had a cup warmer I'd be tempted just to put my cup of tea on it  

[Ian M]

I just use water at room temperature and have not had many issues. None that a dab of micro-scale could not handle.


now cold cups of coffee, had loads of those, so a cup warmer might be a good idea.

[BarryW]

The cup warmer worked really well.  It loosens the decal a lot quicker than cold water.  I also heard about how one problem with decal is how cold, or hot, water can 'shock' them and make them brittle or reduce their conformability.  I am not sure whether the latter is right though.


Here is the instrument panel.





Since taking the picture I realised that I needed to 'tidy' the part on the bottom left where the blue and yellow is..  That will be easy enough.


For the glass I used this stuff toy manufacturers use for things like dolls eyes.  I don't remember where I got it from but it is like a gel, I apply i on the instrument decal with a cocktail stick then you use a light pen (supplied by them) to harden it.  It is more realistic than varnish.


I have finished the seatbelts and they are ready to fit.  here they are.  I have to say the Mr Metal Primer works well in stopping or reducing paint 'flake off' from the parts.

[Guest]

good work mate, nice to see you finally got some seatbelts sorted

[tr1ckey66]

Great start on a fabulous looking kit Barry. 


That metal primer looks to be very good. I guess the real proof will be when you come to bending the seat belts into position but so far the paint looks really robust.


Cheers


P