I have done my first painting session with MRP.
When I first got back into the hobby I started with Humbrol, enamels and acrylics, as I used to use back in the 70's. I struggled with the airbrush and then found out about Vallejo Model Air and gave it a try and it was a revelation. I found I could get a decent result from my airbrush after all... I have since tried AK Interactive which, if anything, spray a little better than Vallejo and Gunze which are a very good paint but not so much better that I was inclined to change my main brand.
First impressions of MRP........ I want to spray nothing else but these ever again.....
These are as big a revelation to me as VMA was. It is very different, of course, using them on a kit to the initial practise spraying and this is where you really find out about them.
I had a 40 minute session spraying four colours, Olive Drab, Yellow, Interior Green and Black.
The black I used was the MPR primer black but I used it as a base coat, not a primer. The other three colours were sprayed direct onto plastic.
For colour changes I first used Mr Levelling Thinner for cleaning but found that this was by far smellier than the paint and for the last colour changes used i.p.a. which worked perfectly and while it has an odour is nowhere near as bad as MLT. That is good, of course, because i.p.a. if bought on-line in bulk is a lot cheaper than MLT. I did use half a cup of MLT at the end of the session and then did a strip clean. I found the airbrush rather easier to clean than after a session with VMA and a lot cleaner and easier than after using Stynylrez primer. One up for MRP.
To deal with the smell of the paint I opened my garage windows, put my extractor fan on and wore, initially, a face mask. As it steamed up my glasses I ended up removing the face mask (I need to get that sorted) and did most of the session without a mask. The smell from the paint was not as bad as I thought it would be so I am less concerned than I was. My garage is attached to the house and my missus did not realise that I used anything different to the usual, passed that test! One thing I did do to keep any smell down and dissipate it more quickly was empty my bin of smelly tissues used for cleaning straight into my outside bin.
Now the important bit...
The paint sprayed beautifully, no tip drying, no spluttering, it went down beautifully. I used a 0.4 needle in my H&S at about 12 psi. I will experiment with a 0.2 and a lower air pressure as I progress. I laid paint down slowly in thin coats building it up to a smooth finish. It dried very quickly indeed and a good hard robust finish.
I found no difference to how the primer behaved to the ordinary paint but, there were signs that the ordinary paint etched the surface of the plastic a little. MRP do advise the use of primers and I will use them when I paint the external airframe. It will make no difference on the inside.
This paint gives me the confidence that I can now do things with the airbrush that I could not do before.
[ATTACH]284760[/ATTACH]
Above you can see how much the pigment settles to the bottom of the bottle. This means you really need to shake these bottles. Fortunately they have an agitator in the bottles to help. I start off giving them a good initial shake by hand and then place them in my paint bottle shaker. OK, its a nail varnish shaker (a bit pink...) and my missus still takes the pee over it, but it does take the hard work out of mixing the paint. I set the paint to shake while I get on with something else... The bottles really do need a good shaking to get rid of that sediment.
[ATTACH]284759[/ATTACH]
Here are my initial efforts...
[ATTACH]284761[/ATTACH]
I would have given you a close up showing the way the paint etches the plastic but it did not come out on the pictures. Because the Tammy plastic is good quality it is very slight.
here is one close up - I did all this in the one session when I paid down the yellow paint. You could not do that with VMA given the time needed to dry and cure....
[ATTACH]284762[/ATTACH]
Once the yellow was dry did washes of thinned orange and yellow VMA. I still need to apply decal softener and a semi matt varnish. Looking at the pic it looks as if I need to soften the orange a little with another yellow wash. What do you think?
I then managed to even start some masking ready for another session with black. I may take several sessions to do all the masking needed but this is a start.
[ATTACH]284763[/ATTACH]
So far so good......
When I first got back into the hobby I started with Humbrol, enamels and acrylics, as I used to use back in the 70's. I struggled with the airbrush and then found out about Vallejo Model Air and gave it a try and it was a revelation. I found I could get a decent result from my airbrush after all... I have since tried AK Interactive which, if anything, spray a little better than Vallejo and Gunze which are a very good paint but not so much better that I was inclined to change my main brand.
First impressions of MRP........ I want to spray nothing else but these ever again.....
These are as big a revelation to me as VMA was. It is very different, of course, using them on a kit to the initial practise spraying and this is where you really find out about them.
I had a 40 minute session spraying four colours, Olive Drab, Yellow, Interior Green and Black.
The black I used was the MPR primer black but I used it as a base coat, not a primer. The other three colours were sprayed direct onto plastic.
For colour changes I first used Mr Levelling Thinner for cleaning but found that this was by far smellier than the paint and for the last colour changes used i.p.a. which worked perfectly and while it has an odour is nowhere near as bad as MLT. That is good, of course, because i.p.a. if bought on-line in bulk is a lot cheaper than MLT. I did use half a cup of MLT at the end of the session and then did a strip clean. I found the airbrush rather easier to clean than after a session with VMA and a lot cleaner and easier than after using Stynylrez primer. One up for MRP.
To deal with the smell of the paint I opened my garage windows, put my extractor fan on and wore, initially, a face mask. As it steamed up my glasses I ended up removing the face mask (I need to get that sorted) and did most of the session without a mask. The smell from the paint was not as bad as I thought it would be so I am less concerned than I was. My garage is attached to the house and my missus did not realise that I used anything different to the usual, passed that test! One thing I did do to keep any smell down and dissipate it more quickly was empty my bin of smelly tissues used for cleaning straight into my outside bin.
Now the important bit...
The paint sprayed beautifully, no tip drying, no spluttering, it went down beautifully. I used a 0.4 needle in my H&S at about 12 psi. I will experiment with a 0.2 and a lower air pressure as I progress. I laid paint down slowly in thin coats building it up to a smooth finish. It dried very quickly indeed and a good hard robust finish.
I found no difference to how the primer behaved to the ordinary paint but, there were signs that the ordinary paint etched the surface of the plastic a little. MRP do advise the use of primers and I will use them when I paint the external airframe. It will make no difference on the inside.
This paint gives me the confidence that I can now do things with the airbrush that I could not do before.
[ATTACH]284760[/ATTACH]
Above you can see how much the pigment settles to the bottom of the bottle. This means you really need to shake these bottles. Fortunately they have an agitator in the bottles to help. I start off giving them a good initial shake by hand and then place them in my paint bottle shaker. OK, its a nail varnish shaker (a bit pink...) and my missus still takes the pee over it, but it does take the hard work out of mixing the paint. I set the paint to shake while I get on with something else... The bottles really do need a good shaking to get rid of that sediment.
[ATTACH]284759[/ATTACH]
Here are my initial efforts...
[ATTACH]284761[/ATTACH]
I would have given you a close up showing the way the paint etches the plastic but it did not come out on the pictures. Because the Tammy plastic is good quality it is very slight.
here is one close up - I did all this in the one session when I paid down the yellow paint. You could not do that with VMA given the time needed to dry and cure....
[ATTACH]284762[/ATTACH]
Once the yellow was dry did washes of thinned orange and yellow VMA. I still need to apply decal softener and a semi matt varnish. Looking at the pic it looks as if I need to soften the orange a little with another yellow wash. What do you think?
I then managed to even start some masking ready for another session with black. I may take several sessions to do all the masking needed but this is a start.
[ATTACH]284763[/ATTACH]
So far so good......
Comment