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Tamiya A6M2bZero 1/32

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  • BarryW
    SMF Supporters
    • Jul 2011
    • 6012

    #31
    That is indeed a problem John. Its not often you get a fit issue like that with Tammy but I had exactly the same on both my Zero builds. Lots of hacking away at plastic involved there.

    I have a similar problem with my third Tammy Spitty, but this time it was my fault as the previous two did not have this issue. I will be updating my thread soon.

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    • Guest

      #32
      Originally posted by BarryW
      That is indeed a problem John. Its not often you get a fit issue like that with Tammy but I had exactly the same on both my Zero builds. Lots of hacking away at plastic involved there.

      I have a similar problem with my third Tammy Spitty, but this time it was my fault as the previous two did not have this issue. I will be updating my thread soon.
      It's shocking really, how much it took to get a fit, but I'd watched Bobby Waldron's video, and he did helpfully point out that, as long as you kept it above the line, it was fine to chop! We live and learn, I'm sure I'm edgier about this kit as its my first one at this scale and price! Still can't decide between black basing and pre-shading....

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      • BarryW
        SMF Supporters
        • Jul 2011
        • 6012

        #33
        I think black basing works well with this scale and also with the lighter camo colours. I think it is easier as well.

        Comment

        • Guest

          #34
          Finished the engine - this was a lot of fun, but I am now convinced that, even using thin cement, some components need to have fixing points masked prior to painting.
          [ATTACH]291305[/ATTACH]
          Those metallic green frames front and back, need to be accurately aligned, and attachment points are small, I didn't use my usual masking fluid, and regretted it! This is not such an issue with non-metallic paints, as they are easy to Scrape clean. But the Aotake finish uses Tamiya clear paints, which act like varnishes. All sorted now though.
          [ATTACH]291307[/ATTACH]

          [ATTACH]291306[/ATTACH][ATTACH]291308[/ATTACH]
          The fit seems good, so have fixed it in place.

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          • papa 695
            Moderator
            • May 2011
            • 22770

            #35
            Just caught up John, some very nice work, I'm really liking what I'm seeing.

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            • Guest

              #36
              Oops, those pics are a bit big...:flushed:

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              • Guest

                #37
                Originally posted by BarryW
                I think black basing works well with this scale and also with the lighter camo colours. I think it is easier as well.
                Yep, I think I agreee, need to do a bit more research on this!

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                • Guest

                  #38
                  Properly fitted now, with cowl flaps open.
                  [ATTACH]291310[/ATTACH][ATTACH]291311[/ATTACH]

                  Just started the canopy masking...
                  [ATTACH]291312[/ATTACH]

                  I'm probably going to re-do this, although the Montex masks are excellent quality, and really well cut, they have a fatal flaw, in my opinion. Being vinyl, the adhesive parts company from the mask very easily, so, if you don't position it perfectly first time, you have a problem. When you peel it off and try to reposition it, you'll notice that it has left some of its adhesive on the canopy, meaning that when you re-position it, some of the mask has no adhesion! So I resorted to using the kit masks, which require cutting out. As you can see, there are a few errors, some of which I can fix with tamiya tape, but my gut feeling is telling me to buy the Eduard mask set, which isn't vinyl.

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                  • flyjoe180
                    SMF Supporters
                    • Jan 2012
                    • 12400
                    • Joe
                    • Earth

                    #39
                    Looking good John.

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                    • Guest

                      #40
                      Thanks Joe, looking forward to getting some paint on it!

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                      • Guest

                        #41
                        Very nice build you have there John.

                        Can appreciate the time and effort you are taking on such a valuble kit.

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                        • Guest

                          #42
                          She's beginning to look like a zero now, also beginning to feel quite big! [ATTACH]291453[/ATTACH]
                          I've dry fitted the cowl, and it seems that it'll stay nicely in place without cement, so I reckon I'll leave it like that, so the engine is available to see. I've made a start on the undercarriage and wing control surfaces, will post pics later.

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                          • Guest

                            #43
                            More cyano action - this time I used BluTac to try and stem the inexorable flow of thin CA, basically the 3 hinges are threaded onto a steel rod, which is then glued into a moulded groove. I had visions of the CA running right up to the hinges, which made me use this method. All went well, but its times like this when I yearn for a two-part ultra thin cement, where no adhesion takes place until a catalist has been introduced. we're not there yet, but it would be damned handy!

                            [ATTACH]291456[/ATTACH]

                            [ATTACH]291457[/ATTACH]

                            Whilst we are on the subject, I searched the sprues high and low for the part arrowed in the image above - two small plates that allowed compression of the oleos (Which I am pretty sure I'm going to glue in place anyway!). I couldnt find them anywhere, and just didn't get how Tamiya vould omit something like this. Then, after PM to BarryW asking him if I was missing something, I realised they were PE - DURRR - part 8 on the sprue in the first image. Aaaand breathe!

                            [ATTACH]291458[/ATTACH]

                            Now piecing the undercart together, which throws up another logistical conundrum - at which point to you commit to cement, bearing in mind that there are three colours in very tight proximity - black, aluminium and Ayotake green. I have settled on brush painting the main parts, they are small enough to get a great finish with a brush and some Model Air.
                            I feel I'm getting closer to mixing the main colour for the 'plane, which is a five colour mix (!) but I feel comfortable with this with my background!!

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                            • papa 695
                              Moderator
                              • May 2011
                              • 22770

                              #44
                              Nice work John, really liking watching this come together.

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                              • Guest

                                #45
                                Coming along nicely John.

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