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Sorry Richard! Late to the party again. I would sit on JR's lap but he has knobbly knees. I enjoyed the read through and it looks like another masterpiece in the making. Good luck
Hi Guys, thanks, was wanting to reply but was too busy and tired after the weekends Hobby event.
Ian, yes I was surprised by what could be added to this kit. The challenges were basically placed on myself like the sliding canopy. John, for this particular build i was trying out a brand called E7. Works and feels like Squadron green putty so there will be shrinkage if used in thick large amounts. Better to add in layers until the required level for sanding. Steve, one is never late in my party and besides who can fault being fashionably late. Lucky for me I'm not too ashamed of the final build of thei kit. Although old it was still a thrill to build.
Hi Richard
Wonderful work on the clear canopy parts. I notice you dip your parts. Do you polish them first with compound? Could you explain please how you use the tissue when you said ..
Jim, thanks. Yes, the one that I worked with sanding down to thin it, had a rub down with rubbing compound and then polished with Tamiya plastic polish and then dipped into Future. Polishing wasn't necessary for the other clear parts and only dipped after making sure they were dust free. As for the tissue masking...the engine as you see was molded to the cowling therefore had a shallow depth which a sponge could not take hold. Soaking the tissue, I could with a sharp tweezer, tease and stuff it into the shallow nooks just like paper mache. When it's semi dry I airbrush and then remove later after soaking it with water again for easy removal.
Since the bomb bay doors were going to be left open I decided to add some strip for the framework and painted them roughly lighter.
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This time I used tape to mask all openings prior to pre-shading using the Nato black that I sprayed the underside and all attachments that were in black.
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The propeller tips were coated in white before the yellow was painted on then masked and black layered to the rest of the propeller.
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The underbelly and wings were masked. The wavy demarcation between the black and camo along the fuselage was drawn on the masking tape and cut before applying.
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The remainder Nato black paint was diluted to nearly translucent to airbrush the pre-shade. Propeller hub tips were prepared as well with the same paint
Hi, the first layer of colour goes on with earth brown. The pre-shadow is quite strong showing through the layer of paint.
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After masking the clear parts I sprayed interior green and then primer over that to create an opaque frame solid enough so light doesn't pass through it when seen against a bright background.
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Green goes on next. I used blu-tac for the masking...
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After a layer of varnish I removed the masking and used a toothe pick to clean any paint residue at the edges of the frame.
Interesting progress.
One day, I will sit down with someone who knows how to pre-shade and solve that little mystery.
Hi Dave, pre-shading as opposed to post shading gives you better control of panelling shades. It lets the over lying paint to blend with the shade and if you want it more subtle just coat with another layer. Some prefer to pre-shade with large splashes to demark each panel.
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