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Scale Model Shop
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Richard's Revell Ex-Matchbox 1/72 Victor Resurfaces
That’s because that’s exactly what they are People tend to associate the word “turbine” with something like this:
However, this is also a turbine:
Anything that begins to spin because of a flow of fluid around it (gases like air are a fluid for these purposes), is a turbine. In an application like on your model, the turbine is probably more likely to be called an impeller, but that’s really just a description of its purpose rather than what it is.
That’s because that’s exactly what they are :smiling3: People tend to associate the word “turbine” with something like this:
However, this is also a turbine:
Anything that begins to spin because of a flow of fluid around it (gases like air are a fluid for these purposes), is a turbine. In an application like on your model, the turbine is probably more likely to be called an impeller, but that’s really just a description of its purpose rather than what it is.
Thanks Guys, I learn something new everyday. The reason I used the word turbine is because the pod propeller was listed as a Ram Air Turbine on the pod instruction manual attached here...and like many people assumed it worked like a turbine...
Dowty Ltd were propeller makers and developed the constant propeller adapting the Rotol design which looked like turbine blades. It acts like the windmill you showed that works the hydraulic pump. The impeller would have been used internally to increase the performance and flow of the pump. Interesting that these three, propeller, turbines and impellers work using blades.
Originally posted by spanner570
Richard - Turbines, impellers, whatever you care to call them, they are a very neat bit of modelling and improve the detail no end.
Excellent stuff.
Ron
Thanks Ron...whatever it is this extra detail shouldn't be on this late a model of the K2 as it was replaced by the two bladed prop at prototype stage. Just thought it looked cool and wanted to be different.
Looks to have worked. No damage to the decals? Did you just apply it to the decal and then allow it to dry naturally or did you rinse it off?
Jim
Hi Jim, with a small amount of thinner at the tip of a small sharp brush, I applied carefully around the edges of the decal film and let the thinner work itself under it. I try as little as possible not to disturb the paint. I leave it and let the thinner evaporate cos its so little...just enough to let it seep in. You may need to use the thinner that's made for the type of paint you use. Mr Color reacts to lacquer thinner easily and maybe thats why it worked.
Ok finally after three years panel wash is applied. I use my very own water colour mix of black and brown with a drop of detergent. With this mix I spread it liberally along the panels...
It looks scary after all the trouble painting the individual panels...after letting it dry for one to two minutes I wipe with a damp cloth in the direction of the airflow.
I did this section by section as can be seen below...
The final outcome only for the top. I will spray a layer of matt varnish to protect the wash from rubbing off before proceeding to the underside.
After this more weathering like chipping, oil stains and streaking. Hope to finish this to start on the Toon build.
The reason I used the word turbine is because the pod propeller was listed as a Ram Air Turbine on the pod instruction manual attached here...and like many people assumed it worked like a turbine...
You’re entirely correct calling it a turbine, because it is It’s driven by airflow resulting from the aircraft’s speed, in the same way a windmill is turned by air blowing past it on its own accord.
Originally posted by rtfoe
Interesting that these three, propeller, turbines and impellers work using blades.
An impeller is a turbine The word just means it’s used to drive something, whereas “propeller” means it’s used to move something forward. In both cases (turbines/impellers and propellers), the blades are usually airfoils,* like an aircraft’s wings. In the case of an impeller, the air (or water or hydraulic oil or whatever) flowing past the blades causes them to move, turning the shaft; in case of a propeller, an engine turns the axle that the propeller is on, causing it to move through the air and pull itself forward just like a wing lifts the aircraft up.
TLR version: you were exactly right in thinking the thing at the front is a turbine
Did I mention you vastly improved it over the kit part, so it looks much better now? I don’t think I did. You vastly improved it over the kit part, so it looks much better now.
* Although, like in all airfoil applications, a flat plate angled upward with respect to its forward direction should also work, but not as well.
Appreciate the explanation Jakko and thanks for the kind comment.
Technical data is not my forte and is reflected on my builds with sometimes a mixture of insignia identification for the wrong situation and the missing rivet or two. :smiling2: It shows very much on my armoured vehicals like I'm working on a dio with a Tiger tank vs US Paratroops on D-Day...even with Spielberg for artistic license we all know none were in that sector. Perhaps I might change it to operation Varsity...perhaps more likely of an encounter there over the Rhine.
Now preparing the varnish for airbrushing but first to mask off the clear parts.
Technical data is not my forte and is reflected on my builds with sometimes a mixture of insignia identification for the wrong situation and the missing rivet or two. :smiling2:
Jim, ask all the questions you want, I'm game for sharing...
Originally posted by Jim R
Did you mean actual water colour paint - the stuff in tubes artist use?
Jim
That is correct except I use a local brand for school kids called Bancho. The pigments are a lot more coarse suitable for armour. I guess the artists ones are much finer and better for aircraft and smaller scale. The detergent is to break the surface tension so the wash spreads and sticks to the plastic surface but not permanently. All it needs is water, a damp cloth or cutip to remove what you don't need. I have used this method for years without damaging any builds. The only downside is you need to protect it with a coat of varnish. I do it immediately after after I'm satisfied with the application or my sweaty palms will smudge the streak effects that I have done.
It works just like commercial washes except that you don't need special thinners. You could say it's like working with fine pigments but in liquid form.
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