One problem with sharpening plastic in a pencil sharpener, is that it will probably leave a ridge on the plastic at the point where you stop turning it. (I’ve never tried it with polystyrene rod, but I used to own plastic pencils, and every time I sharpened them, I had to yank the pencil out of the sharpener to cut off the curl of plastic, leaving a bit of a scar on the pencil.)
-
-
Great looking build Richard, top man for all the effort put in the scribing of the panel lines.:thumb2::thumb2:Comment
-
Thanks Fellas, good to have your comments.
Tim, after three years and getting enough courage to mask the decals for respraying...sorry it took so long.
Jim, forgot to mention to use one of those rotary sharpeners that use gears to shave off the tips. The best way to tackle a situation is not to rush straight into it but to take a step back and consider options.
Jakko, yes tried that and decided on the rotary ones. Have one in the office thats automatic. They cut round the pencil 360 degrees with sharp toothed cylindrical gears as oppose to shaving with a blade.
Fernando, the scribing was at first a daunting task but when approached one piece at a time before assembly on a flat surface, it wasn't too bad. :smiling2:
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Hi,
Cockpit canopies are always a challenge to assemble without crazing or leaving a significant step or gap at the joint...masking is another issue altogether.
My kit came with a pronounced step right at the nose of the cockpit edge. Also gaps of about 1mm at some points needed shims of plastic strip...
[ATTACH]326969[/ATTACH]
To shield the canopy from the putty and vigorous sanding I blocked that with masking tape...
[ATTACH]326970[/ATTACH]
When that was solved then I proceeded to properly mask the canopy view points individually.
[ATTACH]326971[/ATTACH]
On top of this will be sprayed interior gray and then black and then primer to create the opaque frame for the canopy. It's always annoying to see transparency through a supposed solid frame. My regret was not to have cut out the circular port windows and replace with clear perspex as the kit apertures weren't really round.
[ATTACH]326972[/ATTACH]
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Hi, next was getting the angles of the flap right to add the extending arm supports. A lot of guess work here...
[ATTACH]327028[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327029[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327030[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327031[/ATTACH]
Once satisfied it was off to the paint shop...
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Lovely - and clearly a lot of hard work.
The final article is great and the more so, since you had to re-do the paint job.
(This is an aspirational kit... but it all depends on accommodating the thing)
Great work.Comment
-
Hi Dave, thanks. Definitely not a shake and bake kit but builds into quite nice one. It seemed the only injection kit around for some time until Airfix introduced their much improved kit but I have yet to know first hand how it builds.
I'm really glad I re-did the paint job. It is now looking the part that it should be.
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Hi Richard.
Just had an enjoyable read through coupled with that video from Jakko. Always enjoy your attention to detail.
John .Comment
-
Just read through this Richard, your doing a cracking job so far.Comment
-
Thanks John, wondered where abouts were you...busy with the SU76 I guess or keeping Steve off mischief... :smiling6:
Hi Ian, good to have you looking in.
Now the flaps out of the paint shop...
[ATTACH]327145[/ATTACH]
Streaked the silver with Tamiya smoke using the airbrush at different levels distances to the surface before masking and spraying the body colour on.
[ATTACH]327146[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327147[/ATTACH]
These will be attached to grooves that were on the underside of the upper wing halves.
Next the horrendous colour mistake...don't know what got over me...meds? alcohol? :tongue-out3:
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Here it is the disasterous results of a momentarily lapse of concentration...mixing colours and the domino effect that continued... :tongue-out2:
[ATTACH]327275[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327276[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327277[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327278[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327279[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327280[/ATTACH]
Remind me that this needs sun tan lotion...and it even got darker with a layer of gloss varnish. Adding the decals was the nail to seal the disaster. The only consolation was it was a good base of pre shadow for the repaint.
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
No worries, Jim, I'll be happy to explain. Many a times I have painted canopy frames with just the main body colour and when put up against the light, the frames didn't look solid and were transluscent. So I have since painted the interior colour then a coat of black then primer to match with the rest of the fuselage before spraying the body colour. Sounds like overkill but it blots out any light through the painted frame making it solid looking.
Hope that helps. :smiling2:
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Hi, from here onwards the WIP is nearly real time as I had resuscitated the build with repainting only two weeks ago.
The first process was dusting the Victor with a soft brush...a lot of dust collects in three years even in glass cabinets. Then the painstaking application of white glue to all the decal stencils before spraying. Mr Color 336 has the exact Hemp BS4800/10821.
[ATTACH]327389[/ATTACH]
I didn't have to do any shading as the underlying paint was strong enough to leave its mark so the effect is by accident. Now I can add this to my preshade notes for the next kit.
[ATTACH]327390[/ATTACH]
The long decals were masked with thin strips of Tamiya tape.
[ATTACH]327391[/ATTACH][ATTACH]327392[/ATTACH]
Roundel masks were cut with a blade following circles marked with a circular template.
[ATTACH]327393[/ATTACH]
I could breath a sigh of relief after this...and continue with the rest of the decalling and weathering.
Cheers,
RichardComment
-
Thanks Richard.
All is now clear. Another useful tip for my book.
Paint job looks great. Masking in one form or another must have been a long, painstaking task.
JimComment
Comment