Revell 1/32 Tornado GR1 - Desert War
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I have glued the front and rear fuselage parts together. The fit was not great, the underside was OK but getting a decent clean join on the top was a real challenge.
You can see how much Mr Surfacer 500 I have used and I will need to apply a second lot.
The underside is not so bad
You can see that I have glued in the pylons.
I have also made a start on the stores.
There is a lot of sanding and more filling to do this week.... not sure how far I will get beyond that. Not my favourite task but it has to be done.Comment
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I still want a 1/32 Tonka but might wait to see what the new Italeri one is like when it comes out before deciding which kit to go for. But i think it's going to be a GR4 as well so i'll probably be stuck with the old Revell one for a GR1 version.
But thanks to you Barry, i'm getting pointers as to what to look out for lolComment
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VERY nice build Barry just askin as I know you like building the 1/32 scale kits have you built a 1/32 super tomcat or a 1/32 super hornet as if you have it would be nice to see the builds to help me with mine that I have still to buildComment
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In my stash I have the Trumpeter 1/32 F/A 18E Super Hornet and the F14B Tomcat, not the Super Tomcat. I will post threads when I get to them.Comment
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I use three fillers:
Mr Surfacer 500 - for most gaps
Mr Dissolved Putty - to finish off a seam or for levelling a rough surface (helping get rid of those annoying gluey finger marks for instance)
Vallejo Plastic Putty for larger gaps or when I want something to dry quick
I have found that they can work together and have often combined them.
All three work great for wet sanding with I.p.a. and a cotton bud.Comment
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It is solvent based but I don’t find it too bad for smell. The secret of getting the feathered edge is to make sure it is properly cured before sanding. I have find that you can get that with all three of those and I often finish off with the MDP as it is very self levelling and that really helps.Comment
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It is solvent based but I don’t find it too bad for smell. The secret of getting the feathered edge is to make sure it is properly cured before sanding. I have find that you can get that with all three of those and I often finish off with the MDP as it is very self levelling and that really helps.
chrisComment
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It can be where you might have two mis-matched edges, one slightly raised. You can apply filler up to just over the higher edge and sand then down to even it up. A feathered edge means it will blend into the plastic without any ridge.Comment
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