Now for something a little different: 1/48 Boulton Paul Defiant

[BarryW]

Those decals should come out alright in the end.

I do tend to cut the carrier film away as close to the letters as I can, but it entails another risk. For example, on that 'H', the removal of the film increases the chance that the letter will fold on itself creating another problem. Cutting away the film on a curve over and under the bar of the 'H' helps, and you can usually figure out something similar for other letters

Your camo looks really good.

The kit H did not have film between the ‘prongs’ and that was the problem, it folded in and I could not get it to ‘open’ in the water and it ended up disintegrating. The a/m H did have film, hence the silvering. I just had a look and the ‘pricking’ has done the trick. I have applied another load of solution and hopefully I will be able to apply a varnish tomorrow ready for pin washes.

[BarryW]

I have done a panel line wash over a semi-gloss varnish after which I did a matt varnish




Then it was the turn of pigments and other weathering materials such as weathering pencils and specialist washes, pictured.


the metal powder and kerosene leaks are applied after a final matt coat while the other pigments and weathering pencils are best used on top of a matt varnish but under the final matt coat to fix them in place.

you can see some streaking effects from the pencils and washes applied inside the wheel wells. I still have a spot of work to do with washes on the underside.




The chipping is applied over the top matt varnish as we want the sheen of bare metal. I use a cocktail stick, dipped into the Uschi Metal Powder which is rubbed where I want it to appear. It is easy to overdo this so I take it slowly, working around panel corners and other places likely to suffer chipping plus a few ‘random’ chips.... In some places I want it to look more like worn paint than chipping, in those places I use a cotton bud dipped in metal powder, but again, care is needed not to overdo it.

If you have not used metal powders then you really should give them a go, as I find them the most useful pigment of all and very versatile.

[BarryW]

[ATTACH]403111[/ATTACH]One quick pic of the completed model. An enjoyable build with no real issues, recommended. I will do a completed thread as soon as. I kept the weathering fairly light.

[outrunner]

If you have not used metal powders then you really should give them a go, as I find them the most useful pigment of all and very versatile.

I used Uschi Metal Powder on the dozer build and also think they are good.

Andy.

[KarlW]

I've only ever used ground up pencil and my finger to apply.

[stona]

I've only ever used ground up pencil and my finger to apply.

Me too. I've even got a 'silver' pencil which is use for nothing else. I always used to do machine gun barrels with powder from a bog standard HB pencil over black too. I've got a paint now which approximates a parkerised finish so I often use that.

[BarryW]

The advantage of the Ushi Powders is that it’s no fuss and with three different types some really good effects can be achieved. Chipping and general dry brushing, I find, is better with the metal powders in most cases. I do use the silver (and other metallic) pencils as well, sometimes in combination with the powders.

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
As always a really great result. That filling resulted in an invisible fix. Glad Airfix came through with the replacement part. Dropping down a scale has not compromised the quality of your work.
Jim