Eduard 1/48 Fokker D.VII
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Lozenges look good Dave. That’s a job that would be very difficult prior to decals being available. One of the things I occasionally muse over...are the lozenges painted on the real aircraft, or were they stitched together from fabric pieces ?Comment
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You're a machine Dave and this is looking tops!!! The decals look really good too. Were they difficult to put onto such a large surface???
Maybe time for a new cutting matt me thinks...........
Prost
AllenLife's to short to be a sheep...Comment
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Allen,
The decals are pretty tough - applying them over a gloss finish does allow a little wiggle room. A decal solution is a must! I must admit that the mat is getting a little crusty - and this is one of the better ones!
DaveComment
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Thanks for the heads up Dave. I have a WNW WWI Halberstadt CL II and the lozenge decals are huge. Definitely will spray a gloss coat on first when I build it.
And here I was thinking all that paint on the matt belonged on the models..............................
Prost
AllenLife's to short to be a sheep...Comment
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Allen,
a lot depends on how tough the decals are - luckily my decals are pretty tough - one thing you really need is flat nosed tweezers, to handle the wet decals, and flat soft brushes to smooth out the decals - cotton buds are OK, but a bit small for large areas. It needs patience, and you cannot rush it.
I do have MiG Decal Fix & Set, but it works better on smaller decals. The Humbrol Decalfix can make small decals tricky to handle, as it softens them too much. It's much better on the large area decals.
DaveComment
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After a couple of hours drying, there are several areas where the decal hasn't settled down. I use a sewing needle - it's the smallest, sharp object ( better than a pin ), and gently prick tiny holes in the affected area. I then re-apply the decal solution. DO NOT attempt to press the decal down - the solution will have softened the decal to such an extent that it will tear/disintegrate - allow it to dry naturally. It may be necessary to repeat this several times before it really succeeds. Let it really dry thoroughly before moving onto varnish coats ( although with a water-based varnish it shouldn't matter ).
DaveComment
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After overnight drying - an overall sealing gloss coat.
Started adding the AM decals - these aren't as tough as the Eduard lozenges, and tear very easily - in consequence, it took quite a long time to add only a few decals.
I'm going to switch to the gentler MiG decal solution for my next session - It may be easier on the fragile decals
DaveComment
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John,
thanks for that - that laminated propeller really stands out!
The lozenge camo is a source of great discussion, whether 4 or 5 colour fabric was used, whether the lengths were ever used spanwise, as opposed to chordwise ( or angled ). The rib tapes could be blue, pink, natural fabric, or strips cut from the printed fabric, so any combination could be right, and of course lacking contemporary colour photos doesn't help..........................
That's the work of the morning - I'm going to give this a varnish coat, before doing the underside - applying the decals, you need to handle the wings quite a bit, and I don't want to peel off any off the upper decals - hence the varnish. I've cleared the holes out for the struts on the lower wing - easier to do now, than later.
DaveComment
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Respect Dave,
When you first said you had to do all the strips individually, I thought you would go bonkers and this would end up in the bin. Looking at it now, that's mighty fine Sir and the Fokker is still on your mat...
Prost
AllenLife's to short to be a sheep...Comment
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DaveComment
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