Wow some size Barry, love the detail in the office, esp the seat belts .
Trumpeter 1/24 Hawker Hurricane IID trop
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Thanks for that video Jakko.... it’s helpful.
I have pulled together the 40mm cannon and drilled the barrels.
Wings are largely completed. I am inclined to cement the flaps up, most of the time, I like to see the clean lines of the aircraft.
That ridge along the nose came right with sanding combined with Mr Dissolved Putty.
I had a lot of describing to do along with some riveting.
The wings are on. A decent fit with just a little work on the join needed.
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A bit of quick research seems to indicate that only the early two-bladed propeller was made of wood, while all the three-bladed ones were metal.Comment
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I suspect you can’t really go wrong painting it as a metal one — you could always claim it got refitted during an overhaulComment
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Some more progress.
These ready for weathering
While these are primed ready for a base coat
although I already laid down the cockpit grey green I nevertheless did the black primer to ensure consistency in the final finish with the rest of the build.
cockpit was easy enough to mask
That bit of scrap tape on the wing was removed before priming...
here she is primed
There are a few minor flaws shown up by the primer now to sort before I start a base coat. Overall though it looks pretty good.Comment
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I have to say that I am loving this build. For a large scale kit the engineering is pretty traditional, simple clamshell fuselage, no slide moulding and it really benefits from this. The detail is good enough for most people, giving plenty of potential for those who want to add more. Looking at it, the shape is good and it really does look like a Hurricane. I would describe this as a model that wants to be built. The fit is much better than that Trumpy SU-25 for sure. I will certainly build another Trumpy 1/24 Hurricane in future as it is so enjoyable, with which I may well do a lot more ‘detailing up’. There will be plenty of the Maketar masks left for one or two more Hurris.
Anyway
I have been working on the lights after the surface prep.
the Montex vinyl masks are behaving better than some vinyl. Not good enough for the markings but seem to be working ok for the lights.
I sprayed the wheel wells
They will need masking later.
I got the decals out to take a look and even looking at them reminds me of why Trumpy decals should never be used. The main problem of course is how they just don’t hold together and splinter but it is also the way Trumpy seem to always get the colours wrong. Look how bright the red is, nothing like the red used during he war. The blue also looks wrong.
The only decals I will use, with at least two coats of liquid decal film in the hope of holding them together, will be the aircraft serial numbers and stencils. The codes, flashes and roundels will be painted with the Maketar kabuki tape masks. Nowhere close to that just yet, of course....
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I have got on with painting. First the Azure underside then masked up...
[ATTACH]413200[/ATTACH]
Followed by the Mid-stone.
[ATTACH]413201[/ATTACH]
I will mask then paint the Dark Earth tomorrow.Comment
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I masked up with Panzer Putty ready for Dark Earth.
I have not mentioned this before. I washed the sprues in warm water and washing up soap which is unusual for me, I did so because the sprues seemed more ‘greasy’ than usual. I also wiped to model before spraying with ipa. I should, perhaps have used disposable gloves while spraying after priming but, keeping handling to the minimum, it has not been a problem before.
Yet, look at this. In spots the paint is being ‘repelled’, I spray over and moments later there are black spots, the black, being primer. It happened to the primer as well sprayed over plastic.
This is where it’s worse, it has happened in a few other places as well.
After leaving it ` few minutes for the paint to dry a further spray of the paint solved it but in a couple of places, including above, I had to sand the area before repeat spraying. Anyway eventually it was sorted but it really is a pain when it happens. I have seen it before, mostly on Trumpeter kits and never on Tamiya.
Here it Is with the camo done.
On now to the masks to paint the markings.
Above I carefully positioned the first code letter then I laid a strip of masking tape to help position the rest.
Below is the fuselage side with all masks in place. When the rest are done I will widen the masked area with tape before spraying.
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I have started spraying, red first.
I had a pretty bad case of paint being repelled again.
[ATTACH]413438[/ATTACH]
I got it sorted in the end.
Before spraying the white and after replacing the masking elements over the red areas I remove the white elements and used a cotton bud and clean water to wipe the paint surface down in the hope it prevents another case of repelling the paint.
I used white MRP primer as I know it covers well and sprayed light coats.
[ATTACH]413439[/ATTACH]
There were no problems of the paint being repelled. Well not quite, I noticed this previously but it hardly seemed worth a mention. In the detail, the small rivet holes, they stayed black due, I think to whatever is repelling the paint not being clean off from inside these holes. I find that odd after all the black primer was OK going into them. I should add that there were spots of paint being repelled on the surface when I sprayed the black, easily sorted. It is really odd, as I said this is mostly a problem with Trumpeter, though not exclusively them and I have not found it this bad on any kit before.Comment
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I have got on with spraying the markings
blue..
There is some touching up to do in a few places. Note the red in the roundel in the foreground, there seems to be a slight blemish, the issue is from dealing with that odd paint repelling issue. The final matt varnish will sort it as this is just a sheen difference.
The underside
I will need to apply a few decals for the serial number and some stencilling before weathering.Comment
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