Trumpeter 1/32 P47D Thunderbolt - Razorback.

[BarryW]

More progress pics

There are a lot of parts to the wing build up and it is taking a fair bit of time due to the amount of clean up needed. As usual I am not having any open panels and I will build with the flaps up to appreciate properly the lines of the aircraft.





Now a test fit of the wing/fuselage join…




Now that is sweet, it could not be better just as the reviews say. So it looks like I will be doing all the painting, markings and even most of the weathering before attaching the wings.

Anyway, now to get the starboard wing done.

[BarryW]

Here is an overview of where I am at.

All the elements of the build are in this picture.


I have just sprayed interior bronze green on the canopy and then side of the wheel well doors, in the latter case after a black primer.

I will next spray black primer on the canopy prior to the camo colour and on a few other parts that still need it.

The parts below are painted, there are decals for the prop and some weathering to do on them.


some elements that I am working on to get ready for a black primer.


The wings below have had the seams treated with Mr Surfacer 500 and tomorrow I will sand them and apply Mr Dossolved Putty needed with another sanding before spraying black primer.


Here is the fuselage. I found a few areas in need of some MDP and, after sanding, I will reapply black primer.


I tend to work in batches.I will complete the last of the subs and sanding before spraying the black primer everywhere I need to.

it won’t be long before it all comes together ready to lay down the base coats. A few days I expect.

[BarryW]

Painted the wheel wells. I will mask these today and start spraying the first base colour which will be white.

[BarryW]

There is a fair bit of white on this scheme, the tail, including the stabs and fin along with the leading edges of the wings. As usual when spraying white I start with a coat of MRP white primer. This covers really well, perhaps too well, I expect to find myself having to do a spot of post-shading.

I will overspray the white primer with Insignia White then decide on any post shading.

Before I mask off the white I will mask the tip of the fin to paint it red along with a small oblong section of the fin that needs to be painted olive drab where the aircraft serial number decal will go.

[BarryW]

After a spray of insignia white I masked up and sprayed the red fin tip.

I need a rectangle of OD of the right size on the fin onto which I will position the serial number decal.

On measuring I found the serial number height was exactly 6mm so a piece of 6mm masking tape was cut to two 2.25cm lengths.



I then positioned them each side of the fin in the right position



it was then simple enough to position more masking tape around it leaving a little space.



Once I removed the spacing tape and masked off the rest of the fin, I sprayed the black primer over the white in the rectangle and any overspray. This will give me a consistent black base for the OD.

But before the OD I will spray the Neutral Grey.

[BarryW]

Olive Drab is great for weathering and after spraying the Neutral Grey I used three slightly different shades of OD. As well as the black base it really helps produce a weathered effect.

in the picture you cannot really see the effect properly but it should show up better when I have done a Matt coat.


Later today I will remove the masking and get on with masking up to paint the stars and bars.

[BarryW]

I might be wrong but it seems to me that a lot of people are wary of using paint masks instead of decals. I would maintain that masks, with the right preparation and a planned approach, are a lot easier than decals.

I hope that the photos below inspire others to give them a try. The don’t totally replace decals, they only replace the major markings, some decals are still needed such as the aircraft serial number for which I painted an OD box on the fin. You can see below how she looks with the masking removed. There will be a little touching up to do after spraying the markings, but not much



below I have applied the masks for the bars and stars with the elements removed where we need white paint. You can see some pen marks on the masks, this was to help me position the mask accurately. How you mark the masks will depend on the insignia being applied. In this case I wanted to line up the tip of the star appropriately and the bars along rivet lines and define the ends of the bars. This was necessary because I used tape over the insignia to help lift the mask as a whole which obscured the borders. Once the mask was in position I removed the white elements, putting them aside for later making sure I noted where each fitted. Better not to mix and match even if, technically, they should all be the same.


Below I sprayed, first the usual light white primer coat the help coverage. It is always surprising how little base colour is then needed, in this case Insignia White.


while lacquers dry in minutes to be safe I left the model for half hour before replacing the elements over the white. In this case, after spraying the white, I found it easier to position the white elements over the white segments after removing the blue elements. Something it is best done before removing the next elements. I am left with this, ready to spray insignia blue

Again it is best to play safe and leave half hour before removing masking. If you use water based acrylics or enamels you would need to leave longer

then we get this with masks removed


Next I will touch up, for this some localised masking is needed.

Then I will hand paint some details with water based acrylics before applying decals.

[BarryW]

I have praised Kits World decals before. They are the best around not just because of the great artwork but they have the right combination of being thin yet strong. I have never had one splinter apart and with the application of solution they bed into detail well.

I have finished decal application and brushed some Microsol over them.
I did not apply a gloss varnish, there is no need to with MRP as it is glossy enough.

I will apply a couple more Microsol coats

[Nicko]

Thanks for the tutorial Barry - the markings really do turn out very nicely.

Nick

[Tim Marlow]

Loving this. The markings are really bringing this to life!

[Neil Merryweather]

That's looking really funky Barry!

[BarryW]

After a dark wash and the first Matt coat I cemented into place the wings and they did not disappoint.


as I used an acrylic varnish I will leave the model for at least 24 hours before applying a final lacquer Matt coat. Then time for some more weathering.

[adt70hk]

Coming on very nicely indeed Barry.

Well done.

Andrew

[minitnkr]

Your finishes always amaze.

[BarryW]

Some progress pictures for you

I am well into weathering and am about to use oil brushes to stain the OD in high travel areas.