Zoukei Mura Hs129B-2/ RIII, 1/32 scale.

[BarryW]

I have made a decent start on the cockpit.

The fit of parts is superb but they are very fiddly so a good ‘third hand’ set up is really needed. This is what I am using:
[ATTACH]435091[/ATTACH]
Simply a pair of locking tweezer held in a base (both available through John). It works well.

The photos and line drawings in the instructions make it really clear how parts should fit. With the parts below it would have been easy to get it wrong.
[ATTACH]435094[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]435092[/ATTACH]

The seat in place, matching exactly what the instructions show.
[ATTACH]435093[/ATTACH]

More than any other brand it is important to follow the ZM instructions or you can make life difficult for yourself.

[scottie3158]

Looks like a great kit to build with excellent instructions, what better way to christen the new man cave.

[Airborne01]

What better way to christen the new man cave? Oh come on Christy Brinkley with a paint rack, couple of beers, and a big smile ....

[BarryW]

An inbox review has been posted today on YouTube of this kit. It is interesting to watch.

Anyway I got a bit more work done on the cockpit this morning then I sprayed a coat of RLM066 to the inside of the cockpit and will detail it up later after I have sorted a few more cockpit subs. I also sprayed black MRP primer onto the front area of the engines. Very little of the engines will be seen so I won’t be doing a lot of detail painting and will just use metal powder to bring out detail and give it a metal glint.

[ATTACH]435140[/ATTACH]

A closer look at the cockpit before I painted it There is a lot more to do to this, not just detail paint.
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[Tim Marlow]

Coming on really well. However, it looks like there are noticeable ejection pin marks on the seat base and back there Barry. Are they covered by anything during assembly or are they just not visible when the bird is completed?

[BarryW]

Tom, I did not notice until you pointed it out. I suspect it is the light that is showing it up, as I cannot see it at all in the painted pic or ‘in person’.

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Barry. I can see them in the painted pic (above) as well, especially the one on the back and the right hand one on the seat. Not criticising by the way, just thought you might be really unhappy if you didn’t spot them until after you had closed the fuselage.

[BarryW]

I cannot see any of them at all on the actual piece. It must be how the light is hitting the camera. They are certainly there under the paint though Tim.

[Tim Marlow]

Weird…..still, your call to sort them out if you think it necessary….

[BarryW]

Tim. I have had another look. Still no sign of the two in the seat pan, those are just not visible under paint. On the back of the seat there is an oval, very feint, but I am sure it’s detail because of the shape. It does not look like a ejector pin mark. Regardless once weathered and seatbelts are added any trace will be lost anyway.

[BarryW]

Very little of the engines will be seen, only the front, so I have focussed on that.

Having used the MRP black primer I need to bring out the detail. I also want a greasy metallic look and there is nothing better than using these for this.

[ATTACH]435230[/ATTACH]

I am using two types, the ‘Chrome Effect’ is the best one for highlighting detail and making painted plastic look like metal. Ignore the ‘chrome’ bit, if you want a chromed look you will not want to use this.

Here is a before and after just the use of the chrome effect to bring out detail.

[ATTACH]435231[/ATTACH]

Next it is the steel effect. This gives you a nice bluish tint and I think it’s ideal for the central hub, providing as it does a nice contrast to the chrome effect. I apply the powder with a cotton bud, burnishing it down onto the surface where I want it. Here is the result.

[ATTACH]435232[/ATTACH]

I absolutely love these Uschi Metal Powders, they are just so effective and versatile. Some people say that you can do the same with pencils and while you can do something similar it just is not as good.

I have also worked on some more cockpit subs and sprayed the RLM66.

[ATTACH]435233[/ATTACH]

A close up of the I.p..
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I have a lot more work on the cockpit to do, detail painting and weathering.

[adt70hk]

Coming on very nicely Barry.

I've just had a quick look at a video on how these metal powders work because, although you've mentioned them previously, I've not actually seen them demonstrated real-time before.

I have to say they look very simple to use, produce great results and I would imagine the pots last a very long time given what they're used for, making them very good value for money.

I see from the demo I've found in their website (here) that for larger surface areas it can/should be sealed. Obviously for your engine that may not be necessary as it will be hidden away.....I just wondered how durable it is before being sealed..... Just curious.....

Thanks and ATB.

Andrew

[Tim Marlow]

Looks very good Barry. You can get a metallic effect with pencil graphite as you say. It’s very good on smaller areas, but is a little two dimensional compared to those powders. Might keep those in mind if I ever start doing things with engines again…l

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Engines look good. That metallic powder works well. I'll have to look them up and see how they work.
Jim

[BarryW]

Coming on very nicely Barry.

I've just had a quick look at a video on how these metal powders work because, although you've mentioned them previously, I've not actually seen them demonstrated real-time before.

I have to say they look very simple to use, produce great results and I would imagine the pots last a very long time given what they're used for, making them very good value for money.

I see from the demo I've found in their website (here) that for larger surface areas it can/should be sealed. Obviously for your engine that may not be necessary as it will be hidden away.....I just wondered how durable it is before being sealed..... Just curious.....

Thanks and ATB.

Andrew

Personally Andrew I would not use them on larger surfaces simply because of the need to seal them and, if you do, you lose some of the metallic effect. You cannot beat spraying a good metaliser for larger surfaces that does not need sealing. So my advice would be to use them in places such as the engine boss over a painted surface,. The underlying paint does affect the finish, not just the colour but the sheen also.

For me the best use is for dry brushing over a painted surface as part of the weathering process. It brings out your highlights while giving the impression of painted metal that has suffered wear and tear (as distinct from chipping). On smaller scale subjects you could do this instead of chipping or, on larger scale subjects, alongside chipping. And,, yes, these are good for chipping too, for that I use a cocktail stick dipped in the powder.