Zoukei Mura Hs129B-2/ RIII, 1/32 scale.

[adt70hk]

Coming on nicely Barry!

[BarryW]

Another great thing about MRP is that after 30 minutes to cure it’s ready to be masked over…. White parts done…..

[ATTACH]439191[/ATTACH][ATTACH]439192[/ATTACH]

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Really neat camo painting. Masking of the white areas has worked well.
Jim

[dave]

Looking good

[yak face]

Nice work barry , the desert camo looks great

[BarryW]

I have done a spot of touching up and painted the exhausts Burnt Iron.

Markings next….


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[adt70hk]

Coming on nicely Barry. Out of interest which brand of burnt iron do you use?

Also, have you got your shelves up in the room yet?

ATB.

Andrew

[BarryW]

Hi Andrew

I only spray with MRP it’s their Burnt Iron. I will be carrying out weathering to make it look better.

As for the shelves, no not yet, I have paid a deposit for the work which, hopefully, will be done just before Christmas.

[BarryW]

I have been looking closely at the 1 Man Army masks and they look impressive and use a different system to others.

Instead of removing, say a German black cross, using a backing paper to keep the elements in place when positioning them on the model, then removing/replacing elements as you spray the white and black, 1 Man Army provide what look like a better simpler system.

See the picture, 1ab and 1b. You can do it conventionally with just 1ab but instead they suggest applying only the outer part of 1ab, spray white, then remove it and place it with 1b (outer section only) carefully positioned, it will put the black sections in exactly the right place.

Also pictured are the masks for the stencilling data. I like how the masks are numbered. There are some excellent positioning advice on the instructions.

Tomorrow hopefully I will get to use them.

[ATTACH]439432[/ATTACH][ATTACH]439434[/ATTACH]

[BarryW]

I am spraying the markings slowly and in short stages starting with the wing crosses.

First I applied the masks for white sections and sprayed them. After placing the mask I went around the masked and butted wide tape right on the edge around it. This will help position the next mask as well as extend the area protected from overspray. I also applied thin tape over the butt join to reduce the risk of paint getting into it. These thin strips will need to be removed to place the next mask and then replaced.

[ATTACH]439494[/ATTACH]

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The second mask is positioned carefully over the top on the exact footprint of the first mask.
[ATTACH]439496[/ATTACH]

The underside masks are harder to do because of ‘protuberances’ that need to be navigated and detail. Also, of course, the black is not just a simple cross.
[ATTACH]439497[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]439498[/ATTACH]

Some cutting of the masks was needed and the use of tape.

[ATTACH]439499[/ATTACH]

Top wing masks removed.
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All in all they are looking good with very little adjustment/touch up needed. I am very pleased.

Not quite the same story on the underside.

One side is fine, pretty good in fact and there is little more work to do.

[ATTACH]439502[/ATTACH]

The other side though went very wrong. These underside masks had to be cut into inboard and outboard sections and while the inboard is fine the outboard section went very wrong.

[ATTACH]439501[/ATTACH]

My fault entirely as I clearly misaligned it. The good news is that German markings are easy to correct as they are just straight lines. I will use the inboard to help apply tape in the right position, probably using the masking elements left behind from the first session and respray. It should not be a problem.

Verdict on I Man Army - well, I still have to try out the small stencil markings, but overall I do like them and, in future, these will be my ‘goto’ masks. I certainly found them easier to use despite my cock-up.

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Very interesting. Certainly looks as if you have things under control and sprayed markings almost always look better than decals.
Jim

[BarryW]

Having corrected the underwing black cross, it was easy enough. I have got on with the rest of the markings. The most notable element of this is in respect of the minor marking like walk lines. 1 Man Army are the only company, as far as I know, who produce all the stencilling.

Walk line decals can be a real problem to lay down specially on large scale kits and when they are a complex shape. Even if you get them in position, after lots of fiddling, you often get silvering at least in some places and often need to do multiple coats of solution to settle them.

I found these masks really easy to lay down in position, much easier than decals as they hold together. Much quicker too.

[ATTACH]440124[/ATTACH]
Here they are in position.

[ATTACH]440127[/ATTACH]

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[ATTACH]440125[/ATTACH]

I have a couple of areas to touch up but, they look great.

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Oh yes those lines are neat - definitely a vast improvement over decals.
Jim

[adt70hk]

Simply outstanding.... Those masks are great. Even at 1/72 I struggled a bit with these sorts of markings.

Great work Barry. Keep it up.

[BarryW]

I have finished the markings. I did use a few decals, for the dials on the inner engine covers, the triangles, the insignia on the nose. Right now I have applied some decal solution which will dry off overnight. Tomorrow I will start the weathering process.

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