Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[Tim Marlow]

Perfect plastic putty can be put on the panel line, then cleaned off with a damp cotton bud (Q tip to the cousins) leaving them nicely filled. It is soft enough, and doesn’t bite into the surrounding plastic. That makes it unsuitable for shallow dents or structural fills, but ideal for this because it can be rescribed without digging out excess plastic. Cellulose type fillers,, like Tamiya, bite too hard to be useful in this application.

[arb65912]

Thank you, Gentlemen.
Time for some shopping now. :smiling: :tongue-out3:

[arb65912]

Hello my friends. :smiling:
There is no shame to show your mistakes.
Below you see how bad it is now.
Let's see if I can make it better.

I will need to put more putty in certain spots as the step is still visible.

I have learned that when you do putty thing, you rather fill up where the step is rather than sanding the step, I ended up with the VERY thin wall in some places and it does tow BAD things.
A. Makes the joint weaker
B. makes the wall thin, some of my redrilled rivets went though

QUESTIONS:
1. What do I do with the rivet holes I made? I assume I need to re-putty them and redo but very lightly, so I do not poke thru the wall, correct?
2. For these rivet holes, do I use Tamiya putty (stronger but dissolves a bit of plastic) or lighter, sanding easier one?

Enjoy by BAD made rivets and HUGE panel lines.

[Guest]

I think I would try to wash thinned putty into the holes, so they will be closed but still visible after the putty dries. The less aggressive type of putty sounds like it’ll be better for this, as it’s likely also easier to remove if you add too much, without damaging the plastic with more solvents.

[arb65912]

I think I would try to wash thinned putty into the holes, so they will be closed but still visible after the putty dries. The less aggressive type of putty sounds like it’ll be better for this, as it’s likely also easier to remove if you add too much, without damaging the plastic with more solvents.

Thank you, Jakko! :smiling:
Since, I think, I gained some knowledge in that particular area, let's see what I can do.

Believe it or not, it is fascinating for me to think and figure out the steps I want to do to fix it.

Ordered some tools, as well so it will help.

[Guest]

Don’t forget that you can nearly always practice on scrap or leftover bits first. For example, drilling some rivet holes into a part of the kit’s sprue or even something like a drop tank you don’t intend to fit to the model, and then filling them with the putty you have in mind.

[arb65912]

Don’t forget that you can nearly always practice on scrap or leftover bits first. For example, drilling some rivet holes into a part of the kit’s sprue or even something like a drop tank you don’t intend to fit to the model, and then filling them with the putty you have in mind.

Totally forgot about it. Great advice, Jakko!!!! Thanks.

[arb65912]

OK, as the time passed by.....
I managed to cover these ugly holes and panel lines I scribed.
Now, redoing rivets and panels line again.
This bottom panel line is a challenge, a real one, the re-scrubbing tape does not want to curve that much, neither Tamiya narrow masking tape.
Have to try by hand very gently or figure something out. :-)

[arb65912]

QUESTION: Before airbrushing, I was thinking to cover with tape and glue the canopy using MICRO LIQUITAPE.
Instructions say to apply it, wait till becomes clear and press parts together.
The parts that worry me is "clean with paint thinner if LIQUITAPE has dried.
I will need to remove that canopy later on, decide on what I want to do with it (broken and glued back with ugly visible cracks).
Question1: How do I remove that canopy later one? Just pry it out gently?
Question2: What paint thinner do I use to clen?
Question3: If I use paint thinner on the fuselage where the canopy was glued, it will dissolve acrylic underlying paint? (Vallejo)
Question4: So if I brush on LIQUITAPE only on canopy in areas to be temporarily glued, will the sticky part "transfer" to the fuselage part?

[arb65912]

In case MICRO LIQUITAPE is not good, I have MICRO KRISTAL KLEAR and ZAP CANOPY GLUE. Which one should I use?

[Guest]

If you glue the canopy on with white glue (PVA glue), you can pry it off easily later on, and the remains of the glue can then just be pulled off the model without taking any paint with them. Just be careful that you don’t put too much force on the canopy while it’s stuck down with this glue, because it’s not all that strong when bonding plastic parts together (which is the prime reason for recommending it here, of course ).

[arb65912]

Thank you, Jakko!!!!

[arb65912]

Hello, here is some progress, after lots of sanding and puttying and some primer.
Now I can see where bad areas are and redo these again. :-)
Seems like a repetitive process but it is fun to see things getting better (or worse sometimes as well)

[Airborne01]

Mighty oaks from little acorns grow! Nice progress!
Steve

[Mark1]

It's getting there now.