Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[Guest]

did not tighten that nut.

That sort of thing happens to everyone at some point Some months ago, I had a very hard time getting my airbrush to spray, and after a lot of fiddling about in much the same way as you, I eventually discovered that I had been turning the knob on this thing:

[ATTACH]453523[/ATTACH]

the wrong way … This is a quick-release coupling on the end of the air line, so the airbrush plugs into it, but unlike most it has an airflow regulator in it, and I had been turning that further closed every time when I was trying to get more air :rolling:

[arb65912]

One good lesson I learned is to add a small drop of thinner into the paint cup fir a dry run. This loosens any tiny left over dried paint residue and to see if the flow is good.
Good start on your 3D wire frame. Yes the fracture on the canopy will not be a problem as you only need shape and dimensions in your actual work. And if you're not a revit counter then leaving the fracture as a new canopy is impossible to obtain is okay. Try dipping the canopy in Future Varnish...it might seep into the fracture and lessen the outcome. It's worth trying.

Cheers,
Richard

Thanks for the tip, Richard. :smiling:

In my case, the airbrush was perfectly clean as I took it apart in including spraying nozzle and needle so there was nothing there, but I like the idea, will be doing it.

That 3D airframe is NOT what you will see in simulator, it is only for the software to calculate all parameters for the Flight Model, what you will see will be made in Blender. I will post as I go.

It seems that Future Varnish is not available in US, do you know any alternative I could/should try?

[Tim Marlow]

Try Johnson’s Klear, it is the same stuff.

[arb65912]

That sort of thing happens to everyone at some point :smiling3: Some months ago, I had a very hard time getting my airbrush to spray, and after a lot of fiddling about in much the same way as you, I eventually discovered that I had been turning the knob on this thing:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

the wrong way … This is a quick-release coupling on the end of the air line, so the airbrush plugs into it, but unlike most it has an airflow regulator in it, and I had been turning that further closed every time when I was trying to get more air :rolling:

I have the same airflow regulator, but mine at least shows the arrow with increasing thickness indicating more flow.
Probably a nice thing but I haven't tried it yet, the negative thing is that I will not know what my pressure is anymore.
Right now, I set that airflow regulator to max and just watch my pressure in compressor gauge, but I will definitely give it a try next time.

[arb65912]

Do I thin Vallejo Model Air acrylic paint for airbrushing?
The video from Vallejo says, they are ready for using from the bottle but if I want I can add Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.
If I add, how much?

[arb65912]

Try Johnson’s Klear, it is the same stuff.

Jim, I have tried and no luck, could you post a link, please?
All I get is Johnson's baby stuff. :tears-of-joy:

[Tim Marlow]

It’s this stuff Andrzej…

http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.com/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html

Basically a floor wax….

[stillp]

One good lesson I learned is to add a small drop of thinner into the paint cup fir a dry run. This loosens any tiny left over dried paint residue and to see if the flow is good.

When I've cleaned my airbrush I put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol in the cup and press the trigger to check that there is no bubbling, I then leave the alcohol in the airbrush until it's next needed, when a quick blow-through will blast any remnants of paint out.
Pete

[arb65912]

When I've cleaned my airbrush I put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol in the cup and press the trigger to check that there is no bubbling, I then leave the alcohol in the airbrush until it's next needed, when a quick blow-through will blast any remnants of paint out.
Pete

That's a great advice, Pete. Thanks!!!!!

stillp But if I leave it for a few days it will be OK?

[stillp]

Yes, put the cover on the cup and it should last for a week or more.
Pete

[Guest]

Do I thin Vallejo Model Air acrylic paint for airbrushing?

Not normally — it should be mixed thin enough to spray well. You may want to add flow improver, though, which helps prevent the paint drying on the tip of the needle. I had a good deal of that happening until someone mentioned that, and since I’ve started using it, the tip-drying has gone away. The bottle says one drop per ten drops of paint,

The video from Vallejo says, they are ready for using from the bottle but if I want I can add Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.
If I add, how much?

Until it sprays as you want it to That, really is always the answer to, “How far do I thin paint for spraying?” Older paint is often thicker than new paint, so it will need more thinning to get to the same consistency, but it also depends on air pressure, airbrush type, desired effect and more. But in general, I just throw in thinner into any paint that needs it, until it looks like it would spray well, then give it a try. If it doesn’t work, I add either some more thinner or more paint until it does.

[arb65912]

I have read that Stynylrez Acrylic Primer needs to be airbrushed with 0.4 mm needle, I have 0.3 mm needle.

Should I use Vallejo Acrylic Flow Improver for airbrushing Stynylrez Acrylic Primer?

[stillp]

I wouldn't mix makes AJ. I've airbrushed Stynylrez through a 0,2 mm needle, no problems. If it seems to need thinning you can use water.
Pete

[arb65912]

I wouldn't mix makes AJ. I've airbrushed Stynylrez through a 0,2 mm needle, no problems. If it seems to need thinning you can use water.
Pete

Thank you, Pete!!!

I was thinking and thinking and I figured out that thinning the paint is probably OK as long as you do not need to sand it after.
I might be wrong but it seems to make sense.

Whatever components are in the paint they "hold" together by either evaporating the solvent or water (I am not talking epoxy things that dry by chemical reaction)
The more diluted paint, the less things to hold the paint together or they are more spaced is you can say that.
Imagine thinning and thinning the paint until it is almost water.
My sixth sense it telling me that it will be very easy to take it off by sanding, scratching or just handling.

In other words, diluting the paint is probably OK but only to certain limits, so the dried layer does not come off too easily.

Now, the primer which some will touch a bit with sand paper.
In this case diluting is even worse as we need a good hard surface after it dries.

I will take advice from Pete, I will just use it straight from the bottle.
What is the worst?
My airbrush will get clogged.
I will stop and clean and start where I left, it is a primer so I can do any time.
Of course, by the time I get to primer, it will be a while anyway. :tongue-out3:

[arb65912]

First time hand brush painting attempt.... pretty ugly. :smiling6:
I think I did not clean the parts well enough as well. Oh well! :disappointed2:
Practice makes perfect, I need a LOT of practice.