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Engel U177 IX D2

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  • Guest

    #16
    Help.

    I have 2 speed controllers and two motors how do i wire them for independent control. Do i just treat them as two singles on seperate channels. Any help here would be much appreciated as the instructions i have leave a lot to be desired. Also the ballast tanks,can i just fill or empty them the instructions say use a 4 position slider switch (dont have one) I have 6 channels 4 on stick 2 on switches.

    Sorry if this seems basic to you all but as a newbie it has lost me.

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    • Guest

      #17
      Hello Solo, thanks for the build update.

      You can do exactly as you have said, plug them in to 2 separate channels, BUT you can purchase a mixing unit which basically plugs into the channel for the speedo and then the rudder channel and you plug the 2 spedos into the mixer, so you will mix both speedos with the rudder and you only use 1 channel on the receiver for the 2 motors ...see ?. when you apply rudder when moving one motor speeds up the other slows to assist in the turn. When stationary one speeds up the other goes into reverse to assist the turn, all very clever and they are not dear to buy mine cost ยฃ15 its a MTRONIKS W tail mixer, what speedos have yo got ? MTRONIKS speedos fit directly into this mixer etc.

      Hope this assists

      :regards: Sub

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      • Guest

        #18
        Hi Solo. If you purchaced the TAE Kit then you'll need one 3 position switch or one slider (or 1 stick with the the self return spring removed). If you got the TAES kit then you'll need a 4 position switch ( don't exisit AFAIK) or a slider (or one stick with the self return spring removed). Its not really recommended to use a stick to controll a ballast thank though, so I reccomend fitting a slider or upgrading your TX if its not possible to do with the kit you have.

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        • Guest

          #19
          Hi Solo, as Mankster and Sub have said, I use a Mtroniks mixer with a Robbe handset. I was initially going to use just one speed control but Mankster said the turning circle was too large, so I mixed mine. For the piston tanks I am using a 3 way switch, with a neutral point in the middle. I did consider a slider but since the tanks are either on or off on mine and not proportional it wasnt worth it.

          As they said, I turn the rudder left the starboard motor activates and vice versa. Seems to work pretty well.:thinking:

          Paul

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          • Guest

            #20
            Many thanks to you all for your replies i am digesting the info given to me.:respect1:

            I have a futaba 6ex which I am told is not so good for submarines (cant replace it yet Wife thinks I have spent to much already).

            I have two Viper marine 20 speed controllers. I believe I can mix channels on the reciever but not sure yet how to do this. I wired the dive tanks this evening and the only control I have is full open and full shut. Its a steep learning curve but with the help of this friendly board I am getting there

            BUT you can purchase a mixing unit which basically plugs into the channel for the speedo and then the rudder channel and you plug the 2 spedos into the mixer, so you will mix both speedos with the rudder and you only use 1 channel on the receiver for the 2 motors ...see ?. when you apply rudder when moving one motor speeds up the other slows to assist in the turn.
            Thank you sub this would seem a good solution for me

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            • Guest

              #21
              After reading the advice I have ordered the mixer it should arrive Tuesday .Good job its only small I am running out of room to put things

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              • Guest

                #22
                Piston tanks

                On your piston tanks you said the only control you have is fully open or fully shut ? Are you having problems with the tanks ?

                Oh and the PVC tubing that attatches to the inlet / outlet pipes, make sure you put a cable tie or some form of fixing on them. Mine this week, with the cold I think have kept coming off rather too easily. I would hate the boat to sink for something as silly as a tube coming off.

                Paul

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                • Guest

                  #23
                  I would try and move the water intakes where they would be more cosmetically acceptable. The front or rear bulkhead below the surface water line (may be hard to get to once you have bonded the middle deck, if you dont make a bigger opening) or even lower down nearer the bottom of the hull away from eye shot.

                  Looks like you have the TAES controller board with the depth controler plug on module. Only a slider (or a the main stick with the spring removed) will be able to control that properly.

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                  • Guest

                    #24
                    why not use your throttle stick as a ballast and set it on your pitch on the 6ex as they do using it for helicopter pitch and using the pitch to control ballast its just an idea here is a link as how we use pitch control on helis , this looks like it may work ? i would love too know.

                    Esky King V2 Owners Lounge - Page 1079 - RC Groups

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                    • Guest

                      #25
                      Again many thanks for you helpful replies and yes it is the TAES controller board with the depth controler plug on module. I wiill look into all the suggestions made and let you know how it goes.

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                      • Guest

                        #26
                        Bit of a disaster today. Wired the dive tanks and control worked well until i decided to test the failsafe ie blow the tanks to surface on loss of radio signal.

                        The tanks emptied ok but the center spindle kept on travelling until it nearly dissapeared inside the casing. It would seem the micro switch meant to stop the motor didnt so I must have made a mistake in the wiring. Have stripped the tanks and fixed them so its now a rewire.

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                        • Guest

                          #27
                          Makes you heart sink doesnt it when it goes wrong like that. On mine one of the piston tanks, the bracket with the microswitches on got slighty bent.

                          So when I powered up the tanks the rod came out and snapped one of the plungers off on a microswitch. So back to RS I went :angel:

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                          • Guest

                            #28
                            After a week and half of problems with the dive tanks new tae board arrived from Engel. Wired up the piston tanks again just as before (after repairing damage to tanks with help from members of this board) Worked first time of asking passed all tests :grinball2:

                            All I need to do now is find a spot for the pressure valve and seal the wtc.

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                            • Guest

                              #29
                              Ok Time to seal the wts.

                              Due to the wide gap between the wts top and the side of the sub i need to fiberglass a lip first. Messy job fiberglass got everywhere but where it should. Finished with seal needs cleaning up but came out watertight.

                              Not much room in here to fit all needed parts,just made it.

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                              • Guest

                                #30
                                With the WTC sealed and the electics in place decide to fit the top again and oops it will not fit bow and aft. It is rased approx 2 mm so i presume if i file 2 mm of the ceneter section all will be well.

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