Trumpeter 1/32 Lightning P-38L-5-LO

[Waspie]

Be careful to always either copy the file you’re going to resize, or open the original and click the File menu and then Duplicate (or press ⇧⌘S) before resizing on a Mac! This so you don’t accidentally reduce the original in size. You can most likely get the original size back if you have a Time Machine back-up (or by undoing before you close the Preview window with the image), but it’s far safer to work on a duplicate than having to go do that.

OTOH, when uploading from at least an iPhone or iPad, you can resize on the fly: select the photos you want to upload, and then at the bottom of the screen in which you select them, you can tap on something (I forget what it says, I don’t have my iPad here) that lets you choose whether to upload the photos at their original size, or as small, medium or large. “Large” works well here (and on most other modelling forums), as it sends photos of 1280×960 pixels, which is slightly bigger than what the forum resizes them to (1200 pixels along the longest side) and cuts about 75–90% off the file size. This not only saves upload time for you, but bandwidth for John as wel :smiling3:

Yup, as Jakko says. (Running a Time Machine backup as I type!!). I have my pics saved in various places including yee 'Cloud'. Which appears to be the saviour of all things. (Until the internet goes down!!)

[BarryW]

The nose wheel floor has a lot of shallow extractor pin marks. I used Mr Dissolved Putty on these.


Incidentally that photo initially failed to load but I managed it by emailing it to me and reducing its size that way. I really don’t know why suddenly this has become an issue.

[BarryW]

I opened the Eduard photo etch instrument panel set. I did have a go, at least to see if I could use some of it to get a better ip than the kit offers. But, sadly, for me it’s a total waste of time, totally impractical as it requires lots of bending and lots of small etch that need gluing on the edge. With the bending, bits often break off or you cannot get ‘clean’ bends even with my two bending tools. I even tried to work out how I could combine it, or some of it, with the kit parts, ignoring all the instructions, but no, bodging simply won’t work. I truly hate etch sets like this one, a complete waste of money. Unfortunately I could not find a 3D decal or more practical aftermarket ip set so I will be left with the kit one.

This is how I left the utterly useless Eduard

[BarryW]

This is the kit ip. A clear plastic part that needs painting black, a piece of film that I have cut to fit and a back panel that will need painting white so, hopefully, the dials will show through. It is a pretty pathetic thing compared to what you can do with other 32 slaw kits and/or 3D Decals.

Well this is the before photo. I will show you what I end up with after.

[BarryW]

Here are the parts put together. The dials really don’t show very well at all with Trumpy’s system.

I still have some detail painting to do and will post a finished pic when done.

[Jim R]

That IP doesn't look bad at all Barry. Shame about the Eduard set. I have found similar problems with coloured PE seat belts. The instructions say bend but then the coloured layer just cracks off.

[BarryW]

My bench time has been a little limited over the last week so progress is slow. That said the cockpit is largely done, some elements will be needed to be done late in the build.

A couple of pics.



I really do recommend avoiding the Eduard sets for this kit, both the seatbelts and ip. These are the old, horrible type that are a real pain, I managed to get the seatbelts used but, as mentioned, the ip was binned and the kit part used.

I would suggest getting a more generic USAAF seatbelt set, perhaps Eduard’s ‘steel type’ or a HGW set, if you have the ability, unlike me, to make them up.

[BarryW]

Fitting the cockpit into the two fuselage halves is a little complex but with some dry fitting to work out how to best fit it, it goes in well with no fit issues whatsoever. Lots of clamping is needed.

[minitnkr]

Can never have too many clamps.

[Ian M]

Looking good Barry.
The upload issue: has you camera software updated. I find that photos to the forum are a bit squiffy after an update and some of the setting need fine tuning.

[BarryW]

More progress.
Firstly I paints three coloured lights, red, green and amber. The green one pinged off and I have no idea where it went, so I fixed the other two and used Micro Kristal Klear on the middle one which will dry clear. My plan is that once the model is painted, to paint the middle one green and when dry to use more Kristal Klear to make a lens on top.


As you can see I have attached the flaps and ailerons, I ignored the daft metal hinges Trumpeter supplied and just cemented them into place.


One of the expected issues is to get the twin booms on straight and properly aligned. I decided to cement one in place, checking both I found that one is a better fit and decided to use that one. Once that boom is fully dried and solid, I will look at how best to approach the other and the tail.

[adt70hk]

Coming on very nicely Barry.

[BarryW]

I have not been posting as frequently on this for two reasons, less bench time and it’s slow going cleaning up seams as I go. While the twin boom structure is reasonably strong I cannot sand too rigorously as it creaks and it would be easy to break.

So the main airframe is complete except for the nose gun bay. As you can see a fair bit of weight will need to be added.

I sprayed the seams with primer
to help with the surface prep.




I have also been working on a lot of sub assemblies.


Steady progress if not particularly fast.

[Andy T]

When I built the 1/48 Tamiya I thought they'd gone overboard with the supplied weights but it turned out to be only just enough. It can still be made to see saw.

[Guest]

One advantage I can see here is that you can work out how much weight you need easily enough before having to pack it into the nose.