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Nice start Roman,A 1:48 Harrier is on my want list ! Can I ask, what is the detail like. The instrument panel looks good, but how is the surface detail ?
Colin M..
There is a couple of these on ebay.de prices where OK but the post might be a bit more than in England....
Nice start Roman,A 1:48 Harrier is on my want list ! Can I ask, what is the detail like. The instrument panel looks good, but how is the surface detail ?
Colin M..
Detail are great what I can see... it's Hasegawa kit
Very nice Roman. It is only when you model these aircraft your realise how complex some of them are. The engineering in this is quite incredible to get so much in a small space but yet have to service the craft on an Aircraft carrier.
Last time I visited the aircraft museum near Yeovil they had a Shar displayed hanging from the roof as if in the air. It is a remarkably small aircraft & yet for it's year it had so much gear on it. Like the Spit it is a little darling of an aircraft packing such a punch.
A brilliant read is Commander Sharkey Ward (Mr Sea Harrier) as Leader of the Squadron of Shars in the Invincible. The first part of the book he describes a bet with a bunch of USA pilots in charge of the latest F ? based in Europe. Ward said the Harriers were better (despite lower speeds etc.). The US pilots were dismissive. They had a encounters, two best pilots each side, to get into position to fire their missiles at each other. Cannot remember the exact results but it turned out something like Harrier 7 F? 1.
The book is Sea Harrier over the Falklands. Do not miss reading. Controversial in places as he is very critical of Rear Admiral (at that time) Sandy Woodward the Falklands War sea Admiral.
Romane, that is no shame for Hasegawa. Canopy center line seam is unavoidable for certain complex shaped canopies, especially if the canopy is bulbous and looks like a greek letter Omega in cross-section. You have either a choice of seam-line that is quite easy to remove as you've explained or incorrect shape of canopy
instead of brushing Pronto/Klear/Future on clear parts I rather dip them in - the results is more even coverage and for sure no brush marks on the surface
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