The HobbyBoss 1/32 B24D Liberator.

[Tim Marlow]

Comparatively speaking yes. No point having a piece of clear perspex if the gunner cannot see his target. Bombs and missiles are pennies compared to optics.

Sure, but they are consumables like fuel and lubricants. I was thinking more of the huge amounts of aluminium, the engines, and all the electrics and instruments that makeup the reusable bit…...
I would also think that part was cheaper to make than a fighters bubble canopy, which were moulded in many more directions. That part is basically a heat formed flat sheet sheet bent in two directions. Not saying I want to pay for it, but when taken alongside the cost of the whole aircraft it’s not exactly a deal buster

[BarryW]

Progress has slowed a bit due to my back problems. Seen my osteopath today for a treatment and had some advice over my seating position. Hopefully the pace of the build will pick up again.

That said I have made some positive progress.

The port fuselage side is done.



It’s been a smooth build so far, no real issues, fit is good with a logical progression.

The Kits World 3D decals are not very good at all, certainly not compared to Red Fox or Quinta, the latter being the best of the lot.

I am getting on now with the starboard side.

[Waspie]

Some a

Progress has slowed a bit due to my back problems. Seen my osteopath today for a treatment and had some advice over my seating position. Hopefully the pace of the build will pick up again.

That said I have made some positive progress.

The port fuselage side is done.
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It’s been a smooth build so far, no real issues, fit is good with a logical progression.

The Kits World 3D decals are not very good at all, certainly not compared to Red Fox or Quinta, the latter being the best of the lot.

I am getting on now with the starboard side

Some amazing detail there Barry. Impressive.

[Jim R]

Looks great Barry. I hope the back problem gets sorted.

[minitnkr]

Beautiful work as usual.

[scottie3158]

Barry,
Looking good mate, hope they get the back sorted.

[BarryW]

Work has progress on the internals but before I can close her up there is a lot more fitting work to do.

First a dry fit of the two fuselage sides without the full internals fitted. I must get that fitting perfect before I even start to work on getting the rest into place.


As you can see there is a gap from the yellow tape back towards the back. This won’t push closed so I have some work to ‘reduce’ what’s stopping it from closing. The fit underneath and forward of that point is perfect.

Here are the two fuselage internals side by side.



Here is a pic of the main internal structure just loosely placed into position.


I have no doubt that given how much is being fitted inside that there will be a lot of work in this.

All in all before I can cement the two halves together I need to do the following.
1/ Sort out the fit of the two fuselage sides without the internal structure.
2/ Fit the internal structure and adjust it.
3/ Before cementing the internals I need to check the fit of the rear turret and ball turret to make sure I can fit them after joining the fuselage sides. If not I will have to work out what to do to make painting easier. I believe at least as far as the rear turret is concerned that it will be OK after.
4/ I will then, with the internals loosely in place need to check how I can put at least 300g of ballast on the nose. I have a few ideas but may need to make some preparation before cementing the internals.
5/ Only then I can, carefully, cement the internal structure into place.
6/ Fit the ballast. The instructions say 300g but I see that as a minimum as it’s essential that the model is secure on its tricycle u/c given how it will be placed on my shelves.
7/ cement the sides together and check again for rear and ball turret fit.

A lot of work to do to that point.

[Gern]

300 gm! That's a LOT of weight. Methinks that metal u/c set you got is going to save you a lot of heartache!

[BarryW]

300 gm! That's a LOT of weight. Methinks that metal u/c set you got is going to save you a lot of heartache!

True. But to play safe I will still use at least 300g as well.

[tr1ckey66]

The Liberator is looking fantastic Barry. As you say, there’s plenty of work to do before the fuselage comes together, but the internals are looking top notch.
All the best
Paul

[Jim R]

Looking good Barry. Looks like you'll be dry fitting for quite a while. Getting that weight in will take some figuring out.

[BarryW]

Getting enough weight into the front is a definite challenge.

I wanted as much of the weight as far forward as possible.

I used two part Milliput to seal the front and end of a cavity on the starboard side, then I used Gator Grip to push in and around the dry Milliput to make sure there was a tight seal.
I then poured liquid gravity into the cavity and sealed that with superglue.
After that I used masking tape to create a wall into which I poured more liquid gravity in which was again sealed with superglue.

Then, after removing the tape, I did some test fitting to make sure nothing impeded the fit of the port fuselage and it was fine.

Next step was to put in another Milliput barrier which will enable me to pour more liquid gravity in once the fuselage is closed. A m other test fit, before the Milliput was dry and that job is done.



Above you can see how it is left, for now. There will be some painting needed where the Milliput will be visible.

This photo below is how much LQ still need to be fitted, a full bottle plus what’s in the shot glass.

There is one large cavity which should take a fair bit over the nose wheel once the internal structure is fitted, but I will still have a lot more to get in. I have some ideas on that.

[minitnkr]

Between the cockpit floor & wheelhouse roof?

[BarryW]

Between the cockpit floor & wheelhouse roof?

That’s the gap I referred to but it won’t be enough!

[Gern]

Is there any room in the engine cowlings? I know it won't provide as much balance as the front but it may help.