1/5 scale nieuport 11 with working cockpit

[Guest]

howdy, as i am new to model building ( less than a year) and this being my 3rd build( 2 shorts before this )i'd like to post some pics of the build and i'm just learning how to start a build on a thread my next one will be more informative. this is a 1/5 nieuport 11 with a fully working cockpit right down to the throttle. the servo's control the stick, rudderboard etc. and inturn they control the control surfaces. most every thing you see with the exception of one brass instrument housing was fabricated from alum. and brass tube, lithoplate, aluminum sheet and 1/64, 1/32 ply. i used no special tools like milling machines, lathes etc. just a dremal, exacto, razor saw and sandpaper unfortunatly i don't even own a set of files. all the leather work is done in black and natural. anyway here are a bunch of pics and this is also a russian version of the N-11. P.S. i'm working on the upper and lower wings and then maybe i'll be finished with the exception of a bunch of weathering.

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[Guest]

the lerhone dummy motor actually spins with the motor, the lerhone is all scratch built . the crankcase and cover are made of alum. the heads are 2 WB 1/6 cyl. kits chopped and extended to get somthing very close to a 1/5 scale.

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[Guest]

more pics of the build

here are a few more pics. i wish i could post all these pics at once.

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[Guest]

last of the pics. i wiil post some more when its finished. if you need to know how and what tecniques i used on somthing just ask and i will be as informative as possible. next build will be play by play as it should be from beginning to end. BTW next build is a 1/8 fokker dr1 museum quality and every thing works and will fly like this one only even better. i say better because hopefully you learn a couple of things as you go along.

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[Guest]

here are a couple of pics of the finished interior.

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[Greyhead]

What a fabulous example of scale modelling at its’ best!

Hopefully a full build thread will be forthcoming for your next project, I can’t wait.

[Guest]

Fantastic quality work there! You say you are new to modelling - only a year but you must be pretty practical! I think it's about time you treated yourself to a decent set of files though!

[Guest]

thanks for the compliment,actually my wife suggested i get a hobby about a year ago and since i started ive got nothing but good words on my work so i must be doing somthing right. i love this hobby, there's something about fabricating parts and details items out of raw stock that gives me an enormous amount of satisfaction and the harder it is the more satisfaction i get especially when i can say " looks pretty good" i'm my own worst critic you know.maybe someday i'll be as good as you, that's alot catching up to do.

rob

[Guest]

how to make scale hardware

i thought i would post some tecniques i use to fabricate all that alum. hardware you see. today i'm working onthe wing struts. first i scanned the full size strut into my computer. i have adobe but prefer coral draw. once thats scanned in i scan my reference drawing in so i can have it next to the scan of the struts. if your plans our accurate from a kit or scratch the parts should fit like a glove because all your doing is drawing a part over the scanned image.first i take my bezier tool and just connect the dots (nodes) around the strut bottom for the first fitting. after its basically outlined i convert all the nodes to curves this way i can take all the handels on the nodes and manipulate them until i have the right curves. once i have them all drawn i delete the scans and make multiple images on a sheet of paper that way i have plenty of templates in case somthing goes wrong.

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[Guest]

next i cut out 2 of the images a left and a right(if you have dual sided stock it wont matter. use an exacto the cleaner it is the better. i take some card stock and lay it down and then figure out how much space i'm going to need between the two images. 1/8 inch seems good. your compensating for the curve in the front and the rear of the strut remember when i drew it it was just flat so actually your just drawing the face and the card stock will make up the rest of the fitting. those two paper templates get turned over and sprayed with a little tack then you place them on the card stock front of one facing the front of the other with 1/8 in in between. nextxt grab your exacto and cut the image out as a whole and theres your template. it really doesn't take long at all.

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[Guest]

after your card stock template is made you'll want to test fit it around your strut. i had to make another one because this one needed a little more length. once every thing is copastetic your template is ready for lithoplate.

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[Guest]

i lightly tack the back of the template and then press it down on my lithoplate. i then take an exacto blade and score around the piece twice and then i mark the holes with a sharp awl. next i remove the template and discard it. once i break the part free of the suround by gently rocking the straight edges first and then the curves. i use flat needle nose for this operation.i then sand the edges of the part with 400 grit sandpaper smoothing out any imperfections and burrs. then i drill the holes for the screws or rivets whatever you choose to use after the holes are drilled i lay it down face up and sandleft to right and then a little fine steel wool and youv'e got your finish. tommorow i'll post pics of the strut with all 3 locations attached. when you bend the litho part around the strut you want to make surethat you are lined up and centered. BTW i forgot to mention that this first lithoplate part will become the template for the next one, so don't bend it until you have your other parts scored on lithoplate. now you can bend it around the strut.

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[Guest]

just finished all the fittings for the struts will glue and screw in place tommorow. here are a couple more pics . the fittings have all been semi formed around the strut

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[Greyhead]

Excellent work; don't you just love litho plate!

[Guest]

i sure do. i find the sheet stock you buy online or in a hobby shop a little thick and it seems to have a different composition than litho. i'm all stocked up for awhile i have about 25 sheets 32" x 24" it only cost me 5.00 . i am a printer by trade one of my many professions. i have noticed that lithoplate seems to seperate easier after its scored where sheet stock is a lot less maluable.