After placing the cable tape into the base cylinder without spreading clue, I pressed it against the plastic using my thumb, to eliminate any possible bumps or waves that may appeared. Thank to accurate calculations the cable tape ends, came exactly one against the other, almost in a perfect facing touch. To secure the cable tape in this place, I dropped cyanoacrylic clue through the opened holes on plastic.
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Dude. Wow.Comment
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The F-16's hot air exhaust of the ECS (Environment Condition System) comes in two different shapes. The old A/B types come with small cover. Here is the way it is covered nowdays on newest Block 52s F-16C/D. The basic shape of the ECS cover made by plastic card and the air exhaust detail will be added later.
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CHAPTER IV - Main landing gear bay construction
The main landing gear bay is one of the most complex areas on this 1/18 scale model. I did the dimension calculations, sand the outer surface of the air intake tube carefully, cut pieces of plastic card as required and placed them to start building the bay.
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I have to say Nick this is a pretty amazing piece of modelling and I'm thoroughly enjoying watching this aircraft take shape.
Superb job and many thanks for taking the time to share it with us.Comment
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loving the detail, and tecnique tips. very cool build :vacat:Comment
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Absolutely dying to see more of this build. Please don't keep us hanging!Comment
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Using 0.75mm drill, a single hole opened on the air intake tube, to later host a pitot sensor which is normally can be found just before the engine's intake fan. This drilling should be done now, before connecting the main landing gear bay construction with lower part of F-16's surface and the pitot sensor will be placed later.
The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with ZAP cyanoacrylate super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:
- It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
- it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
- you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,
- you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,
- you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem,
- can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally...
- it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.
Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.
Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.
The main landing gear possessors basic lines were copied from the T.O manual, lined out with green ink marker and later cut 'n' drilled from white plastic card. Blueprint copies enlarged to 1/18 scale, were used to cut the possessors on exact shape & size and later set into place.
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- It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
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Starting to place cables, actuators, fractional DC motors, hydraulic lines, securing hooks & stuff into the model's main landing gear bay. It may look quite empty now, but everything will be in place and look realistic as the project continues.
I used hair thin copper wire cut off from a simple electric cable to bond plastic spue together, to simulate the cable braids found into an F-16's main landing gear bay. The cables and hydraulic lines are placed carefully according closeup pictures of the real gear bay.
Found into my old sparebox, a cracked & damaged 1/48 scale fire extinguisher could be also be upgraded to become the metal oval shaped tank found into the main landing gear bay, known as the Halon 1301 (also known as Bromotrifluoromethane CBrF3, which is a an organic halide to provide fuel cell inerting to protect the fuel system from explosions due to combat threats) reservoir. Filling the gap with epoxy cream, sticking it on a nail and spin it with the Dremel tool against different types of sandpapers was enough to make it look like the real one.
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Outstanding work mate, well done. Keep the pics coming.Originally posted by \
AndyComment
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WOW! :music:
Please tell me you do this for a living! Can't wait to show this thread to my Wife and justify all of my kit purchases! I'll say" This is what all of my kits will look like and win lot's of money" Take care, JeffComment
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an excellent build...you show a talent that is way more advanced than my own,
keep it coming.Comment
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