1:48 Revell Mk IX Spitfire

[Guest]

Here we go again. My beloved bought me this when we went to Hobbycraft for me to get some oil paints as I have decided to go that way to paint my horses. Anyway, Revell.... It isn't Tamiya but still on a high from my mustang, I was quite excited about doing this. Looking at the sprues, I won't bore you with sprue pics unless anyone wants to see them, I do have them, I was quite impressed, it don't look to bad.

Unable to resist (I really wanted to start my horse drawn convoy and I will) I built the cockpit. Goes together like a dream. I then sprayed it and the fuselage sides in Interior Green. Over this I experimented with a spray of Citadel black wash which darkened it down and gave it quite a nice look. Maybe a tad too dark but I quite like it.

I then picked out the ruder pedals and hydraulic pipes in silver and the seat in Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red, not the black the instructions stated. Then I gave it all a very light drybrush of Tamiya XF-54 Dark Sea Grey. Over this I used another new toy, the silver and rust from the Tamiya weathering master 'make up kit'. Once satisfied with this I put on the decal for the instrument panel and the seat belt decals that don't look too bad.

I was a bit reticent about putting the instrument panel decal as the plastic was well detailed and in multi level relief. However, I was not confident I could paint it that well. However, the decal is flat and the panel is bumpy but no fear. Just putting the decal on and rolling a Q-Tip cotton bud over it, it started to conform. I then painted Microsol over it and it looks great, just needs the gun sight fitting to finish it.

I used the same drybrush on the moulded detail in the cockpit sides which now await the bits and bobs (technical term for Oxygen bottles, controls etc).

Usual thing, it will all be lost when it disappears into the fuselage but I can see that I have done it better than I did the Mustang one so lesson learned so far.

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[Guest]

Cool Graham!

I jus got a 1/48 Academy P-47 today and will have to do some of the same drybrushing on the fuse sides.

I understand the basics of drybrushing, yet it doesn't quite look as good as yours :-(

What do you do to get it so "undefined" yet enough, if you get what I mean.

Do you use paint or pigment to brush on?

Sorry for hi-jack

Theuns

[yak face]

great looking cockpit ,graham, looks like a nice little kit.I know revell get a bit of stick sometimes, but i dont think its deserved, all of their recent releases are superb, good value too. looking forward to seeing this one progress. cheers tony

[Guest]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Theuns, in this case, the drybrushing was a very light drybrush with XF-54 Tamiya Dark sea grey. However, on top of that I used the 'orange rust' pigment from the Tamiya weathering master set 'C'. I think the thing with drybrushing is knowing when to stop. When I did my Mustang, I went overboard with it and it just looked a mess. With the black ink creating the shadowing, the grey lifting the edges and the pigment looking a more natural (to me) worn and dusty look. Discussion of technique in an 'Under Construction' is not a highjack, it is information sharing, and that is why we are all here.

[Guest]

Alright Graham

Damn fine work mate! You've got the cockpit looking spot on and i love how you've dry-brushed the inside of the fuselage. Interestingly enough there seems to be a lot more detail on the inside of the fuselage on your Revell kit than on my Tamiya.

Cheers

Paul

[Guest]

Your getting a bit to good at this !!!!:-)

[Guest]

I have been informed that the kit is a Hasegawa re boxed by Revell. Just finishing off the cockpit this evening, toned down the black and white decal for the instrument panel with a drybrush of the orange rust . Oxygen bottles etc fitted, it does seem a shame none will be seen lol. Cheers Hugh, not good enough methinks....

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[Guest]

Dont be so modest Graham, from what I've seen of your work, it's very, very good & this looks to be going even better! I'll be going the Revell club soon as I've just bought a 1/72 He-177 Grief.

Also, on the drybrushing subject, I absolutely agree that less is more-I would recommend doing it very lightly over a number of sessions. At first you shouldn't see a change but it develops slowly. Graham's pics are a lovely example of getting it just right.

Patrick

[Centurion3RTR]

Looking good Graham, i may have to put a Spit in my stash after seeing yours and Pauls.

Have fun, John

[Guest]

If I understand correctly you lads mostly use powder pigment for drybrushing?I have been trying humbrol on a brush but my skill is not yet enough to make it look good :-(

WIll something like artist's pastell do the same as pigment?

I can get pigment here but is is rether pricey and the model budget is now way beyond any other buys after my P-47 purchace yesterday!

What I was thinking of was to make my own pigment by rubbing pastel stick on sandpaper to get the fine powder.Is thei then brushed on the inst. pannel on dry paint, or how else will the powder stick to where ever you want it to??

Later

Theuns

[yak face]

hi theuns , you can use either method or both if you want. The thing with drybrushing paint is (like it says) to make sure the brush is virtually dry and just dust it over the raised surfaces as you would with pigments, make sure its an old brush though ,the scrubbing action will ruin a good one! Your question about the pastel and sandpaper is exactly right, i used this method on my kubelwagen to get a sandy, dusty look. just rub a chalk pastel stick on sandpaper and brush it on the model, most will come off but enough will stick to give the effect you want. cheers tony

[Guest]

Exelent thanx!

Will go and get some today.

But will the powder stick to the dry paint of the interior pannels?

Theuns

[yak face]

Exelent thanx!Will go and get some today.

But will the powder stick to the dry paint of the interior pannels?

Theuns

It should stick ok, some will fall of but enough should remain to give the effect , dont forget to use an old brush. cheers tony

[Guest]

If I understand correctly you lads mostly use powder pigment for drybrushing?I have been trying humbrol on a brush but my skill is not yet enough to make it look good :-(WIll something like artist's pastell do the same as pigment?

I can get pigment here but is is rether pricey and the model budget is now way beyond any other buys after my P-47 purchace yesterday!

What I was thinking of was to make my own pigment by rubbing pastel stick on sandpaper to get the fine powder.Is thei then brushed on the inst. pannel on dry paint, or how else will the powder stick to where ever you want it to??

Later

Theuns

Hi Theuns

If you're drybrushing with Humbrol enamels, don't shake or stir the tin before use-what you want is some of the thick stuff at the bottom of the tin. Use a piece of old sprue to get a small amount of this out, dip your brush into it & draw the brush along a piece of kitchen roll until it's dry (a rule-of-thumb for me is brushing it lightly over a finger-tip; when it's only highlighting my fingerprints then I know it's ready to use on the model).

I have started to mix a little oil paint with the enamel paint as this extends the drying time & prevents the brush getting clogged up so producing a finer effect. I personally wouldn't use pigments for dry-brushing because the particles will never be as fine as paint so the build-up will be thicker & less effective in terms of scale. Just my opinion!

Patrick

[Guest]

Here is a couple of pix of the pannel and floor, sides.

The pannel looks more "there" than ir realy is, I also (can't see it in the pix though)put clear gloss on the instrument faces to look like class faces.

The seat has some allu brushed on to look like the parachute harnass chipped off the paint.

Sorry for the poor quality pix :-(

Just got hold of some pastels, will try them later.

The white over the black pannel was white acrillic aplied with the correct hard flat brush this time, I am happy with it so far.

What do you lads do to simulate exhaust stains, the pastel black/grey?

Theuns

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