Typhoon 1b 1/48 Hasegawa

[Guest]

Hi guys.

I have masked off the bottom and applied the first of the top colours. Need to mask up the top somehow and spray the dark green.

Cheers

Kresten

[ATTACH]29244.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Ian M]

Looks good whats the problem?

[Guest]

Hi Ian.

The problem is how to go about masking it off, im just not sure how to go about it.Might try some thin tape and try and bend it into shape. Any thoughts or suggestions much appreciated.

Cheers

Kresten

[Ian M]

You will probably get those who use it telling you to do it with blue-tak. Personally I either freehand a camo if the scale is on the large side, or I will use a 1:1 (to the kit scale not full size duh) drawing and cut masks out of tamiya masking tape for the smaller scales. Tamiya do half the work for you with a scale plane ready to cut masks to.

If its the strips on the bottom of the wing I would just go for the masking tape and hope that the bits you need to mask are flat!

The Typhoon is looking great but the way.

[Guest]

Thanks Ian.

I would normally freehand the camo but my airbrush has been acting weird, not sure what im doing wrong. It is spraying what seems like dried paint arounf the outside of where im painting so i dont get a nice even line, more of a splatter. It is really getting annoying. lol. I would need a rather large yard for a 1:1 scale drawing. LOL.

Cheers

Kresten

[Guest]

this is coming on well Kresten

scott

[Ian M]

Thanks Ian.I would normally freehand the camo but my airbrush has been acting weird, not sure what im doing wrong. It is spraying what seems like dried paint arounf the outside of where im painting so i dont get a nice even line, more of a splatter. It is really getting annoying. lol. I would need a rather large yard for a 1:1 scale drawing. LOL.

Cheers

Kresten

Do a full strip down clean. Dont forget the needle guard! Also check the needle. Carefully take it out and draw it backwards and twist it at the same time on the back of your hand or inside forarm: somewhere where the skin is soft and sensitive. It might be that you can feel a slight scratch which would indicate that the end of the needle has gotten a knock. If there is a bur or rough bit its not the end of the world. First try just cleaning it in some thing like cellulose thinner. some thing that will thin/remove all paints, no matter how hardened they are. I use Xylol which can remove six week old acrylic from my desk like it was never there!!!

If that dont help, find the finest wet and dry you can find. And I mean fine. finer than 1000! give it a good blob of spit and very gently twist and draw the needle back. You should hardly be touching the wet and dry. You should feel/hear when the bur toches the paper. I give no gt with this advice and if you go at it to hard, you could bugger the needle. I have done this a few times and its worked every time.

Hope you sort it out.

Just had a thought, its no so simple a thing that the paint is just to thick and the air pressure to low? that to can cause gritty paint! Basicly the paint is drying as it leaves the nozzle.

[stona]

Very good advice from Ian above. I'd just add that it is worth checking the nozzle as well. It's best to use some kind of magnifier to check that it hasn't been biffed or ,more likely in this case,split.

I'm not sure what airbrush you use but many have holes or channels for the air to pass through (for example in the head cap of my IwataCS). If these are blocked it will impede the air and cause an effect similar to that you describe.

Steve

[Guest]

Another thing to add to the above, what temperature is your paint at? If you are indoors, not so bad but if paint is stored in a shed or something, it could be that the cold weather is upsetting it. I spray in the shed but all my paints are in a carry box stored in the house.

[Ian M]

Being in Brisbane I dont think the cold is a problem at the moment, More like the paint drying to quick in the heat. :laughing:

I thing I have found very usefull for a good clean up are the small brushes you can buy in the chemists for cleaning between your teeth with. Several firms make them, those I use are from Ekulf (you can see them here www.Ekulf.com and look under mellemrumsborster!!!) and can be had with different thickness wires, but are all the same lenght. These are just long enough to go almost right through the front of the airbrush after the tip is removed that is.

Try them. I can do my normal cleaning run and think I have a clean brush. A couple of drops of solvent ad a quick scrub with one of those brushes and the brush comes out "rather dirty".

[Guest]

That's it, I will shut up now.......:emo10:

[Guest]

Ian, you may well have a very good point there. In very warm and dry conditions the paint could actually be drying before it hits the surface of the model. You could try a slightly thinner paint or spraying in a slightly cooler environment if you have one.

[Guest]

Thanks a lot guys. I will try and up the pressure and see how that goes as it is a brand new airbrush. If that doesn't work I'll try thinning a bit more. The coldest it gets here at the moment is 19C. Lol. Well I'll see how it goes.

Cheers

Kresten

[Guest]

Thanks a lot guys. I will try and up the pressure and see how that goes as it is a brand new airbrush. If that doesn't work I'll try thinning a bit more. The coldest it gets here at the moment is 19C. Lol. Well I'll see how it goes.

Cheers

Kresten

[Guest]

Thanks a lot guys. I will try and up the pressure and see how that goes as it is a brand new airbrush. If that doesn't work I'll try thinning a bit more. The coldest it gets here at the moment is 19C. Lol. Well I'll see how it goes.

Cheers

Kresten