Tamiya 1.32 Spitfire

[Guest]

Hi Folks,

Just joined this forum and would like some advice please on the above tamiya kit.

Many years ago I built a number of Tamiya 1.12 Fi cars so am used to the detailed quality of their kits.

Being a WW2 aviation fan I have decided to go for the 1.32 spitfire in RAF (J Js) mode. I would really like to build it on Jeff Wellum's Mk 5 as he is a fairly close neighbour of mine but don't think that is physically viable (unless you know different)

Anyhow, as it will probably be a one off (who knows) I don't feel I can justify the expense of an airbrush kit and compressor et. Do you think I could do a decent job using Tamiya aerosol paints for larger surfaces with brushing methods for smaller bits . I really don't want to make a 'horlicks' of such a lovely kit

Also, I can't help thinking that with all that detail, the finished model would be a bit on the small side.

I note that the engine rocker covers don't have the Rolls Royce motif on the Tamiya kit but after market (barracuda) examples do. Could this be because the engine cowls are such a close fit and the motifs would prevent a close fit. Just a thought.

Yours views and any painting tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Pete.

[stona]

It's a great kit. It has the best interior detail I've ever seen "in the box"

EN398 (JEJ) was part of a production block originally ordered as MkVcs. They were manufactured as various variants but EN398 is a good example of an early MkIXc. It shared many features with the MkV, small carburettor intake, single-angled horn-balanced elevator and standard rudder. I don't know which wing Wellum's aircraft had but if it was a Vb you will have quite a project converting it.

There is no reason why,with careful masking,you can't achieve an excellent finish with spray cans and you can certainly brush paint the interior and detail.

You are correct about the rocker covers. The cowlings are a close fit and despite being very thin for an injection kit I suspect you are right about the reasons for the lack of a Rolls Royce logo.

The finished model has a wingspan of amout 35cms and looks pretty impressive.

Here is JEJ as I had a swing at her.

And the result.

Good luck

Cheers

Steve

[Ian M]

I also believe that by not having the Rolls Royce logo Tamiya also evade paying licence fees to RR.... Didn't the Opel Blitz trucks have the Opel mark omitted?

I could be tempted to say wait a bit and see what Tamiya spit out later, It would appear that they are into a run of Spitfires, with the soon to be spifire number three. Maybe a mkV could be on the way later. Lets face it they do enough of them in 1/48.

Ian M

[Guest]

Many thanks for that Steve. Your effort is extremely impressive. I shall get a spray can and experiment before letting loose on the kit. If you don't mindme asking, what cement did you use as I believe thare are different viscosities from various manufacturers?

[Guest]

Good point Ian. Seems a shame they didn't cover BOB model first or maybe I'm being too naustalgic:hmmm:

[stona]

I use Tamiya extra thin cement for most of a model. There are other very thin cements,I know Humbrol do one. I like the way it capillates between the mating surfaces. For the photo etch and some small parts I use good old superglue and for the clear parts Kristal Klear which I suspect is just expensively packaged PVA.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Great to see the comparrison with a real shot there. It just shows what a realistic model can be made from this kit and, as Steve says, with rattle cans and brushes so you don't have to be worried about airbrushes either.

What about soft edge camoflage Steve? I've heard of using card masks set at about 1mm from the surface to give a soft edge would that be useful here or were these a hard edge camoflage?

[Guest]

thanks again.Avery helpful forum. Just about ready to take the plunge.

[Dave W]

Im no expert but i use thin card masks stuck on with small blobs of blue tack to do british camoflage.If you just make sure the card isnt touching the surface it works great.I find old calendars make good masks as they are flexible enough to go over engine cowlings and other lumps and bumps.

[stona]

What about soft edge camoflage Steve? I've heard of using card masks set at about 1mm from the surface to give a soft edge would that be useful here or were these a hard edge camoflage?

I went with the photo I posted and a few others. I reckon the edge on these aircraft was pretty hard. I concede that it does vary somewhat,as always a good photo is a great help. I'm one of those convinced that manufacturers in Britain used mats to mask aircraft in the paint shop. There is quite a bit of circumstantial evidence and first hand accounts to support this and there are photos of some aircraft that must have been masked.

You can certainly achieve a softer edge by using a raised mask. Blu Tac is perfect for raising the mask. The higher the mask the softer the edge BUT you bust spray at ninety degrees to the mask. Spraying into/under it defeats the object of the exercise.

Luckily for me a lot of my Luftwaffe subjects had soft demarcations which are possible to do freehand with a bit of practice.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Converting the kit to a Mk.V would entail removing part of the back end of the engine, to take it from a 60-series (two-stage compressor) to a 45-series (single-stage,) and that would also involve removing a scale 9" from the nose, replacing the 4-blade prop with a 3-blade, and converting the wing to a "B" type; rather you than me. A 1/32 Vb is due from Hobbyboss around the end of this month; Hannant's have been listing it as £59.99, but the importer says that it should be £39.99.

Wartime camouflage, in the factory, was hard-edged, from about 1940, since it was found that the roughness of the overspray caused unacceptable drag, so rubber mats were used for masking; when the aircraft got outside, and into service, though, is anyone's guess, and feather-edged examples can be found. There's a pinned thread, on this subject, in the WWII section of Britmodeller.

Edgar

[stona]

Thanks for the clarification. Mr Brooks is certainly a Spitfire expert,something that I most definitely am not. You can be sure that you would need to do all of that to make a V from the Tamiya kit,not something I'd be lining up to attempt.

I don't want to veer to far off thread but as far as the edge between camouflage colours go I think it's important to look at contemporary photos. These will generally support Edgar's contention that masking mats were used. There are always exceptions,aircraft resprayed to a greater or lesser extent past the point of production for some reason.Some people will never be convinced,that's up to them,I'm not trying to start an argument :cheesygrin: In the end we should all paint our models how we want to paint them,not to suit anybody else! If you reckon a nice soft edge looks best that's fine by me.

Cheers

Steve