Looking forward to that splinter camo Paul so will it be the Lifecolor or the Vallejo?
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love that centre boss on the propComment
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I'm going with the Lifecolor RLM70/71 although I am making the 71 lighter as it is very close in colour to the 70 black green. I believe these are the right colours (my lightened version probably isn't but gives a more defined splinter pattern). I have the Vallejo as well and I still think it's too brown. This is only my view though. Should have an update soon as the splinter pattern is almost there. We can have a look at the colours then.Looking forward to that splinter camo Paul so will it be the Lifecolor or the Vallejo?
Harry, that prop is a really nice after market item.
Back soon
PComment
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The Painting Process
I've had a bit of time lately to really get stuck into this build so what follows is quite a bit of pregress...
The splinter pattern has now been applied to the model. I followed my usual practice of pre-shading the primer with thinned black paint along panel lines and any recesses.
I then roughly outlined where the RLM71 needed to go with masking tape ensuring there was allowance for the RLM70 to overlap. I did this because I didn't want to completely cover the pre-shading with the base RLM71 so that the 70 would receive some shading too.
I then masked off the RLM71 ready for the splinter pattern RLM70 (black green).
This took some considerable time but I kept telling myself, 'I best get used to this as I've got two He111s and a Ju88 to finish in the same pattern!'
This is the result with the RLM71 straight from the Lifecolor pot (please note I'm trying to achieve small variations in colour so judging the actual colour of the Lifecolor paint is more difficult).
I felt the above result was very close in shade to the RLM70 (especially around pre-shaded areas) I therefore decided to lighten the RLM71 with a little RLM02 and yellow paint, mask roughly (with post-its) and apply again.
The ratio was roughly 3:1 RLM 71 to RRLM 02 + a little yellow to retain the hue of the colour.
The original colour is on the port wing with the starboard wing and rear fuselage being lightened with the new colour.
It is subtle but has made the splinter pattern stand out a little more...
...and here's the final pattern...
Later, if I feel that the colour has too much contrast, I can change the colour slightly with the use of filters. If you don't know what these are they are basically coloured washes (this is a trick pulled from my armour modelling). The application of a green colour wash will result in a subtle darker RLM71 shade whilst still retaining the variation in shade within the finish.
...and here's a pic of the underside with the pre-shaded RLM65...
I've got a bit of tidying up to do on the paint finish and I also need to apply the RLM70 to the spats but this shouldn't take long, hopefully I should have all this complete by the weekend.
Next time it's the decals...
Cheers
PaulComment
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Looking good Paul I think you made the right call with the lifecolor I don't think mines turned out so well with the Vallejo paints. As you say next is the decals that will really bring her to life.Comment
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I like the use of different shades Paul, especially on upper surfaces that would normally bear the brunt of weather effects. It gives the stuka a much more natural feel.
PatrickComment
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looking really goodComment
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Hi VaughanLooking good Paul I think you made the right call with the lifecolor I don't think mines turned out so well with the vallejo paints. As you say next is the decals that will really bring her to life.
I'm sorry to hear that your splinter pattern has not come out as you'd hoped. I do think Vallejo's RLM 71 is off, Lifecolor may also be wrong but at least it's green. As I've said in the thread I may revisit the RLM 71 with filters to darken it a touch (this is made possible because I ensured the shade was light - you can't make a dark shade lighter!).
Is the colour the problem? You seemed to be steaming along quite well, and (because it's you) I can't believe that it's a technique problem. I want to say now Vaughan that your builds are always excellent (for instance your truly brilliant He162) and I view you as a very accomplished modeller.
Please post when your ready it will be interesting to see the colour difference. If it's just the colour then it's no big deal.
Cheers
paulComment
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I think on a model it is a matter of artistic interpretation. To my eye that splinter scheme looks good.
The two colours (70 and 71) actually had a very low contrast between them, but that doesn't make for an interesting model. These are taken from an extremely rare and early colour film. I can't remember if I took them myself or from Falkeeins Luftwaffe blog, so credit where it is due.
Cheers
SteveComment
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I think so too Steve, that's why I went for a higher contrast. I knew the difference between the 2 colours was minimal and I may tone down the RLM 71 yet with a filter. I reckon a blueish green filter over the green surfaces will give the result (more-or-less) seen in your excellent reference pics (thanks again).I think on a model it is a matter of artistic interpretation
BTW I ordered the 'Dive Bomber to Tank Buster' book and it arrived today. It is very good.
Cheers
PaulComment
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I think you have done a great job on the paint Paul.Comment
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Yes a filter will also 'blend' the colours a bit. Like you I always increase the contrast for a better effect, otherwise on a model it can almost appear monotone.Originally posted by \
It is a good book, about as good as it gets in one volume, I certainly keep my copy well thumbed
Cheers
SteveComment
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Decals
The Trumpeter decals are not accurate. The crosses on the underside of the wing are undersized and the upper wing crosses are the wrong type (the ones supplied are late war white outline crosses). In an effort to rectify these inaccuracies, and after doing a fair amount of research to find a suitable machine to depict, I elected to go for Eagle Cals #144.
I have to admit that finding suitable decals in 1/32 for the BoB was quite difficult (which I found surprising).The particular aircraft I am depicting is in fact an aircraft used in the Balkans campaign.
I do know that St.G 2 also saw action during the BoB. I therefore applied a bit of artistic licence, removed the yellow Balkans campaign paintwork (nose and rudder), and hey presto a BoB Stuka!
Just to show you how far I went, I also purchased 2 sets of Montex masks but opted for this scheme because I felt it was more attractive.
Anyway, the EagleCals decals are excellent - perfectly in register, nice and opaque and nestled onto the gloss surface perfectly. The only criticism of the EagleCals set I do have is the stencil placement diagram, which is confusing and frankly wrong in places. The diagram only shows the port side of the aircraft and It explains that some stencil info is 'right side only' ????? and I took this to mean starboard side. However the first aid cross is depicted as 'right side only' when I know for a fact that this is on the port side of the aircraft.
I cross referenced a few sources and eventually decided on the decals below.
For the first time we can really see what this Stuka will look like
I've got a fair bit more to do before finishing: weathering, adding small details, removing the canopy mask (that awful 'has the paint crept under the mask moment!) etc. etc. but Ido think I'm on the home stretch now...
Cheers
PaulComment
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you got a swastika on the tail lol,looking neat so farComment
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