Scale Model Shop

Collapse

Acadamy BF109 G6 - First Build..

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • stona
    SMF Supporters
    • Jul 2008
    • 9889

    #16
    Here's my top tips for fitting wings to fuselages.

    First test fit everything before you glue it together.

    If you have a very large gap it may be possible to 'splay' the fuselage slightly to minimise this, but there are limits imposed by what's in the fuselage, usually a cockpit assembly. You can use bits of sprue across the fuselage to hold it out, just make sure that your 'spacers' won't interfere with the fit of anything else!

    Also make sure that you have the wing dihedral (the amount the wing bends up relative to the fuselage) correct. It may be you need to lift the wing tips which will close the gap at the wing root. Don't go mad with this. I've seen models with nice wing roots but rather improbable dihedral angles

    Anything but the largest gaps, which may require some plastic card shims, I fill with CA glue (superglue). I run a medium or thick CA into the gap and immediately sprinkle either baking powder or talcum powder onto the glue. The talc is for the smaller gaps and has the added bonus of smelling nice. Leave it thirty seconds and sand it flat. Don't leave it for any length of time as this home made filler will cure much harder than the surrounding plastic and become difficult to sand without causing precisely the kind of damage to the surrounding area which you are trying to avoid. Unlike plastic putties it doesn't take hours to harden and, crucially, it doesn't shrink. I estimate that I can do a wing root in less than five minutes.

    Small gaps can be fixed with your normal plastic filler. I swipe it in the gap and remove any excess with an cotton bud moistened with an acetone based nail varnish remover. If you are careful you won't need to sand at all, but you may need to repeat the process due to aforementioned shrinkage.

    If your test fit reveals a step rather than a gap then you need to think about ignoring the instructions. Steps are very difficult to fix seamlessly and without losing a lot of detail.

    A good trick is to fit the upper wings to the fuselage first. This should leave no gap (obviously) and also no step. When you come to fix the lower wings you may need to make some adjustments but the most usual result of this technique is a small gap along the inboard leading edge of the wing which is easy to fix and, most importantly, easy to fix invisibly.

    Others will have their own techniques, but many will be variations on this basic theme. There's almost always a judgement call to be made about how to go about solving each problem and that will only get better with practice and experience. I've been making model aeroplanes, joining wings to fuselages, for a long time and I still learn from every model.

    The most important thing is to have fun, try things out and see how they go. Every model you build is not going to be a masterpiece........ask me how I know

    Cheers

    Steve

    Comment

    • Guest

      #17
      thanks. this had a big step on one side. nearly all gone now with filler and sander. will see how it looks after painting

      Comment

      • monica
        • Oct 2013
        • 15169

        #18
        nice going once it has a coat off primer on will show all the floors , you will need to refill and sand,

        and all what Steve has said is great help and advice,

        Comment

        • colin m
          Moderator
          • Dec 2008
          • 8741
          • Colin
          • Stafford, UK

          #19
          Have also primed it with humbrol rattle can grey primer through airbrush (what a mess). done some more filling and sprayed hte wheel wells. scared about the camo paint job!

          Just wondering if you need to decant ? I use Halfords primer straight out of the can. It can be a bit too powerful for smaller parts (hold them down with blu-tack / masking tape) but the actual model, just fire away.

          Comment

          • stona
            SMF Supporters
            • Jul 2008
            • 9889

            #20
            Originally posted by \
            Just wondering if you need to decant ? I use Halfords primer straight out of the can.
            Me too. Halfords Plastic Primer works best. You do have to be careful not to flood the model as Colin alluded to, but you shouldn't need to decant.

            Cheers

            Steve

            Comment

            • Guest

              #21
              prob not. tried priming some little bits on sprue. was very overpowering.. couldnt control it very well and found it easier in airbrush. will try my other model straight from can..

              Comment

              • Guest

                #22
                ok it has been a while!! I have just bought a new H&S ultra airbrush but having problems getting good free hand mottles and lines without splatter and spider effects. i have tried many pressures and paint consistencies. some times I tried using some holes cut into card. the wings were fine to do, it is just the side.. anywhere here are some pics..is there any other techniques

                I might even just go for some winter camo and just white wash most of the crap bits out. Ideas?

                [ATTACH]85530.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]85531.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]85532.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]85533.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]85534.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]85535.IPB[/ATTACH]











                Comment

                • eddiesolo
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Jul 2013
                  • 11193

                  #23
                  Looks good, it could be the heat that is drying the paint, in really warm weather I have noticed that my AB doesn't work as well.

                  Si

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #24
                    yeah is boiling where i build!

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #25
                      ok we did the mottling. got better freehand ones with thinner paint, though mostly used cardboard and some patterns as a mask..

                      not brilliant but my first attempt.. prob wont do another Luftwaffe one for a while. have a flak cannon and car to build to go with them. maybe make a little scene

                      [ATTACH]85537.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]85538.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]85539.IPB[/ATTACH]





                      Comment

                      • monica
                        • Oct 2013
                        • 15169

                        #26
                        great job for your first plane build,Adrian, its turned out well,

                        Comment

                        • flyjoe180
                          SMF Supporters
                          • Jan 2012
                          • 12390
                          • Joe
                          • Earth

                          #27
                          Nice first aeroplane Adrian. Good on you for attempting the mottle, it's something myself and many others have avoided, but with anything else I guess practice makes you better at applying it. I think if you thickened the size of the mottles up a bit you would have an effective scheme. The build itself is very clean and tidy, nice work.

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #28
                            Yes nice tidy build I would be happy with that as my first build keep it up you obviously have some modeling skills there you now just have to hone them good job. I personally wouldn't attempt the mottle pattern so good on you for trying.

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #29
                              thanks. i was getting a lot of splattery overspray. i thinned down and they were a lot better. the mask with cardboard seemed better. just have to get used to new airbrush.. i have a spitfire xvi for my next aircraft. at least that will be easier to paint..

                              Comment

                              • stona
                                SMF Supporters
                                • Jul 2008
                                • 9889

                                #30
                                Hi Adrian, I spray quite a few of mottled camouflage schemes. They are amongst the most varied 'paint jobs' you can attempt. I certainly take my hat off to you for having a swing at one first up. I think you've done very well.

                                The trick really is that there isn't one! Once you get your airbrush working well with your combination of airbrush, paint and pressure use it to spray everything. There is no easy or trite reply that I or anyone else can give you to achieve this. My one advice would be to up your pressure. A lot of modellers seem to spray at pressures lower than those at which many airbrushes work properly. Have a go at 35 psi and don't be scared to up it a bit and see how it goes. After that you'll just have to fiddle with your thinning ratios and then practice, practice and practice a bit more.

                                Always remember that these varied Luftwaffe schemes, mottles, botches, squiggles etc were applied by humans using spray guns. To keep in scale try to envisage how far they could reach. Also, many of them, particularly late in the war, might not be very skilled sprayers and hence achieve less than perfect results.

                                This one is early and was a fairly neat job:



                                Cheers

                                Steve

                                Comment

                                Working...