I’ve you’ve seen my F-16, much the same thing happened there: black automotive primer, which I would have thought would hold well to the model, came right off with the tape (Tamiya too) on the underside of the model — just lifted a whole patch of paint right off. I never used to have problems like this with primers 10, 20 years ago, but the ones I can buy these days seem to have a different formulation that just doesn’t adhere as well anymore.
Airfix 1/72 Sea King
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I mostly use Tamiya grey or white. The stick just fine.....I’ve also used Mr colour 1500 (really a liquid filler) and Alclad grey primer. The Alclad is a little rough, but the others are really nice.....all are cellulose based so should lock into the plastic surface. If you can still get car cellulose grey or red primer that will work fine as well.....Comment
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Jakko - Yes I've been watching that build, interesting colour for an aircraft. Glad it's not just me that has had tape lift primer. Of course there's still the distinct possibility that I've done something badly wrong, but it's knocked my confidence in the product.
Tim - Thanks, I'm sure I have a litre of cellulose primer knocking around somewhere but it's so old I reckon it's well past its sell by date. A bit like me! :smiling5:Comment
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A day late so not bad for me , looks a good start Andy.
I'm with Jim on the primer, that white Vallejo takes quite a few very thin coats to get any depth and then a good couple of days to be really hard. Much prefer the Stynylrez, not the cheapest , but well worth it. As for tape, well Tamiya. :smiling2:Comment
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Welcome aboard John. I didn't have this problem with the black I used on my Spitfire, so by the sounds of it the white can be the most troublesome. The Stynylrez was definitely on my radar as I'm trying to stay solvent free wherever possible. I may end up trying a selection of primers until I find something that works for me.
So this happened earlier
Most of the primer came off simply by sticking tape over it and peeling it off. The few stubborn bits left needed some airbrush cleaner but it didn't put up much of fight. Will hopefully finish off the nooks and crannies tomorrow, give it a good clean down, then leave it for a few days to settle before carrying on with the filling and sanding.Comment
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Had my little brother round for the evening and showed him this picture of the box
He confirmed that he flew in it regularly and that particular aircraft (XZ 596) was nicknamed the crab as it always flew slightly sideways, a bit like a car with poor wheel alignment! He's going to look through his flying log for 2011 and see if there were any significant rescues that I could make a diorama of.
Rich was honoured for his significant role in the highly publicised MS Riverdance rescue which would have made a great scene, but that was 2008 so the livery was different, and until he checks he's not sure it was the same aircraft. Interesting bit of history none the less :smiling:
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Canopy on. To say it was comprised of 3 pieces it almost fits :smiling5:
Going to have a go at masking and painting it along with the main body.
Also put together some sub assemblies like the undercarriage pods and the all important winch.
Working out which bits to assemble before painting and which to paint first and stick on later has been a head scratcher, but I guess that will become easier with experience. Pretty sure these pods will need to be done separately as I'll never get around all sides of them and to the airframe behind if I fit them now, especially with their support braces in the way.
There must be a dozen antennas and aerials too, I know I'll just knock them off so will fit those last. I've already broken 2 off but luckily the kit has plenty of spare seats in it and the legs are pretty much the ideal size to substitute!Comment
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Be careful with anything cellulose andy, as you know its quite strong and although a cellulose primer will really grab the plastic it can be too corrosive and cause a wrinkled effect in the surface which will show up in subsequent paint coats . The main primer i use is Halfords grey acrylic , its a bit of a bugger to use as its an aerosol so overspray in the air is a major factor , best done outside or in a dedicated s##t hole ( ie my shed!) Ive never had any problems with lifting , it gets a real grip and dries to a hard smooth surface that doesnt obliterate detail . Its even a perfect match for US neutral grey so ive used it as a finished colour on US aircraft undersides before. Ive got some stynlrez ( now called ultimate modelling products or UMP) black but i havent tried it yet , but by all accounts it needs a good few days to harden or it can come off when sanded. Cheers tonyComment
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Thanks for the heads up Tony.
I'll bear the Halfords stuff in mind as I used to use it back when I was painting computer cases and it always worked well for me, but I've taken the plunge and ordered a few Mr Hobby surfacer products to try. There are several spare parts in the kit for different versions so at least I can give them a realistic test. Will probably have to try them out under the carport until I get some extraction sorted in the shed, or maybe take them to work. As long as I remember not to bake them. I don't think the plastic will fair too well at 80C air temperatures!Comment
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Hi Andy
I’ve used Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 diluted with Mr Colur levelling thinners before, makes a good primer that can be sanded and respirated to remove minor surface issues.
Tamiya grey and white spray primer, when decanted for airbrush, also act well when diluted the same way.Comment
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