I usually prefer to mask the whole thing and then cut out the individual windows, so I can remove the tape from the frame. I tried masking each cockpit window separately on one model, but had a hard time getting the pieces the right shape and in the right place.
Airfix 1/72 Sea King
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Guest
-
I must admit to using Eduard masks. I find the time and stress saving far outweighs the cost. Tried Montez masks but wasn’t quite so keen on them....Comment
-
Guest
-
Ha ha, I should hope so, they've been daft enough to pay me to do it for the last 25 years :smiling2:
But I know what you mean, I'm finding it a whole different ball game with an airbrush. I'm plodding along with a 0.2mm nozzle at the minute. The cheapo kit I bought came with a 0.3 & 0.5 but for some reason neither of those want to work (no paint comes out at all!) so I keep putting the 0.2 back in. The bigger nozzles look deformed like they've been damaged so it might take me a while if I start doing larger models lol.
I'll treat myself to something better once I really start to get the hang of it, but since I've recently bought one of these to add to my arsenal at work I need to build up my tool funds a bit first!Comment
-
-
Guest
Comment
-
-
Guest
Added most of the decals today. Definitely not my favourite thing and in the future I think I'll pay my son to do them for me :tongue-out2:
As I mentioned earlier I'll be painting the area around the engine exhausts rather than using the supplied black decals, but that'll be after another coat of clear to seal in the other decals. I also painted the red & white stripes on the tail rotor tips as there was no way I was going to manage 12 tiny decals!
My bro popped over today and pointed out that it's missing some directional UHF aerials on the front so I might end up making some of those, but other than that there isn't much left to do. Should be finished by Monday if I can drag myself away from the snooker!Comment
-
Guest
Thanks Si.
It was my first time using the Vallejo gloss varnish in anger and I was pretty impressed. I have some Mr Color GX100 on the way to try too. No doubt I'll be building a scale car in the near future so need to work on my finishes lol.Comment
-
Guest
-
Be careful with anything cellulose andy, as you know its quite strong and although a cellulose primer will really grab the plastic it can be too corrosive and cause a wrinkled effect in the surface which will show up in subsequent paint coats . The main primer i use is Halfords grey acrylic , its a bit of a bugger to use as its an aerosol so overspray in the air is a major factor , best done outside or in a dedicated s##t hole ( ie my shed!) Ive never had any problems with lifting , it gets a real grip and dries to a hard smooth surface that doesnt obliterate detail . Its even a perfect match for US neutral grey so ive used it as a finished colour on US aircraft undersides before. Ive got some stynlrez ( now called ultimate modelling products or UMP) black but i havent tried it yet , but by all accounts it needs a good few days to harden or it can come off when sanded. Cheers tonyComment
-
think its similar to what you have coming . I quite like it, used it on this.
I might be wrong but I think I heard than it can be sanded back?Comment
-
Comment