ICM 1/32 AH-1G Cobra (early production)

[BarryW]

I have managed to get the top section on using the side as a guide. So far so good but, clearly there will be challenges when I cannot support a section from inside. I am using extra thin cement for this as it needs some structural integrity that pva types cannot fine it. I am using very small amounts touch a join carefully with capillary action easing it in

[Jim R]

Good luck Barry. That canopy looks awkward. The canopy on helicopters is, as you say, very prominent so draws you eye on the finished model.
Jim

[adt70hk]

Looking very good so far Barry. That canopy does look tricky. Hope it goes to together ok in the end.

ATB.

Andrew

[BarryW]

The third section partly there. I have cemented it only to the bottom and side of the fuselage, not yet to the top of the canopy. The rear of the top section is, itself only cement at the edge on the starboard side. When the port section is read I will need to lift the top to alone the port edge with the port side and then cement it, that’s the theory. But, so far so good. Slow going allowing the cement to set properly before the next stage.

[BarryW]

I have got the two last panels on. I have to say that this is the only aspect to this kit that is below par. These transparencies are difficult to attach and are not a good fit. I managed it though but I do have to fill some gaps between them before I can spray paint. I will use Micro Crystal Klear for this. How will it look when the masking comes off? That is the big question….. we will see.

[BarryW]

Well canopy parts on. Patience pays off, but…. All those gaps between transparent parts. Dealing with this is not a normal filler job. Abrasives, aggressive solvents, and too much handling would damage them.
So, water based Micro Krystal Klear may be the solution. In theory it should fill
The gaps and be transparent so when the first internal cockpit colour is sprayed the inside looks good. Also any surplus can be removed with damp cotton buds before it dries.

well it is done, not the easiest of filling tasks and I will have to go carefully around it again to be sure before I spray.


i won’t discover whether this works until I remove the masking at the end. Either it will be a great result or I end up throwing the completed model away.

Now there is a cliff hanger….

[BarryW]

Now those photos were taken the right way up yet the site skewed them….

[Guest]

Either it will be a great result or I end up throwing the completed model away.

If they come off the model cleanly, then you can always refit them …

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Well I hope it works. It has been well thought through so it should work.
Jim

[BarryW]

Well I popped late to lay down a primer coat. She is looking OK so far. I think that Krystal Klear filling worked. I cannot see any gaps.

[BarryW]

I have had a spraying session.

I used MRP101 SEA Camouflage Dark Green FS34079 on the main aircraft


on the other subs I used several colours
MRP009 White Aluminium on the gun pods. MRP139 Olive Drab on the rocket pods, MRP173 Tyre Rubber, as a very dark grey on the rotors. Later I will mask up to spray the rotor tips yellow, the ‘workings’ titanium and gun metal sections of the gun pods.

[Ian M]

looking good Barry. I find that micro clear quite good. Its pretty tough and unlike CA not brittle when set up. Another good trick for tricky clear parts is to dip them clear (Yes the floor polish stuff) and when 100% dry carefully remove from areas that will be glued. Thin CA and some accelerator should stick the buggers together. The clear prevents the dreaded CA fog.

[adt70hk]

Coming on nicely Barry.

Ian - thanks for the Klear/Future tip.

ATB.

Andrew

[BarryW]

More done

Wingtips painted yellow. This is always a problematical colour and I overcome the problems with a light coat of MRP’s sand yellow primer as it covers well and a light coat is enough for my purposes. What is important is to make it an even coat.




I like a modulated colour as I consider that this adds realism, specially to an operational aircraft. If you want a more solid yellow then another sand coat is needed. Here is how it looks before spraying yellow:


I also sprayed the mechanism titanium and here it is with the final yellow coat on the tips, MRP 142 Orange Yellow 47


the anti- glare panel




photo wrong way up again despite best efforts.

[minitnkr]

Have used Krystal Klear for decades. Great product. Had to replace my last bottle after 25 years as it was starting to yellow:smiling3:.