Oh dear it's a 1/72 Bristol Beveldere
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The only heli I've ever been in was a Wessex. Friend of mine at a MU was qualified to take off and land for post-repair testing, but not qualified to actually fly, so he gave me a ride - 30 feet up and back down!
It was an hour or two before my teeth stopped rattling.
PeteComment
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The only heli I've ever been in was a Wessex. Friend of mine at a MU was qualified to take off and land for post-repair testing, but not qualified to actually fly, so he gave me a ride - 30 feet up and back down!
It was an hour or two before my teeth stopped rattling.
Pete
Just like wheel alignment but bumpier!!!!
Loved flying in the Wessex, superb helicopter.Comment
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Her ya go Richard. A few helicopter control terms for ya!!
Cyclic - control between the pilots legs. (errr - not the joystick). Allows the pilot to move the machine left/right/forwards/backwards and any combination in-between!!
Collective lever. Lever to the left of the pilots seat. Moves the controls to make the machine go up/down.
Rudder pedals. Same as any aircraft, yaws the aircraft, (left - right), to allow it to point in a specific direction.
To fly the machine, pilots use all three controls to achieve manoeuvres. (Useless fact. NASA used to, (no idea if it is still the case), insist that all astronauts were helicopter pilots, that is due to the additional control input in flight.) Other than the rudder pedals, the cyclic and collective also have additional switches and buttons to operate radio's, weapons and such just in case the pilot gets bored!
Ha ha me too then later on seeing some movies notice the handle can be twisted and elevated up and down while flying and didn't see it abruptly stop. :tears-of-joy:
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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Thanks for the correct names for those items Doug. I only know how to build and bad at describing parts of flying things...it's worse when it comes to the floaty things. I don't even have plans to work with and just eye balling photo references. Now at least I can describe the cockpit parts properly as I post.
Ha ha me too then later on seeing some movies notice the handle can be twisted and elevated up and down while flying and didn't see it abruptly stop. :tears-of-joy:
Cheers,
Wabble
In essence, to take off, the pilot has to slowly pull the collective lever up whilst applying power by twisting the throttle. Lifting the lever, alters the pitch on ALL the rotor blades, (hence the term 'collective'), giving lift to all the rotors. At the same time, specific to single rotored craft with a tail rotor. The pilot simultaneously applies pressure to the rudder pedal so as to keep the helicopter pointing the same direction to counter the loss of torque when the collective was applied!!!! (In simple terms, stamp feet, rub stomach and pat your head!)
To get forward flight, the pilot then applies a forward input on the cyclic and the helicopter will start moving in a forwards direction. At the same time altering the collective and rudders to maintain a smooth transition from a hover to forward flight. (The reality isn't as straight forward but tbh, Explaining it would get lost in-between my brain and my fingers on the keyboard)
There is a device on the rotors called a swash plate. This converts the pilots inputs on the cockpit controls to movement on the rotor head. (One part being stationary and the other rotating).
Obviously, the tandem rotor craft you are building would apply a few differences due to the addition of the second rotor. One would be rotating clockwise, the corresponding rotor would be anti-clockwise to counter the torque reaction!!
Phew, time for a brew and admire more of the builds on here!!!Comment
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Thanks again Doug for the explanation now "I believe I can fly...spread my wings and fly away..." :smiling6: Very helpful.
I do need more help, I have managed to alter one of the rotor heads by inverting and re-doing the bibs and bobs to get a counter rotating prop. Would you know which goes clockwise...the front or back. Here's the modification next to the other original...still needs more detailing...
Airfix made the error to make them turn the same direction I think to save on tooling.
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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Thanks again Doug for the explanation now "I believe I can fly...spread my wings and fly away..." :smiling6: Very helpful.
I do need more help, I have managed to alter one of the rotor heads by inverting and re-doing the bibs and bobs to get a counter rotating prop. Would you know which goes clockwise...the front or back. Here's the modification next to the other original...still needs more detailing...
[ATTACH]489612[/ATTACH]
Airfix made the error to make them turn the same direction I think to save on tooling.
Cheers,
Wabble
OK just read your previous post!! Glad you have it sorted. Just ask if you need anything! Can't guarantee I'll know but after 25 years fixing or flying in them something may be of use!!Comment
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Yup, both rotors go in opposite directions. It's all to do with torque.
The Soviets get around it by placing one rotor on top of the other both counter rotating. (KA50 - Wiki - KA50 )
Another was the US Kaman HH43 Huskie (Wiki - Huskie )
Friend of mine was an empire test pilot based at Farnborough. He loved the Chinook. Loved telling tales about just how versatile it was.
He would wax lyrical about its turning around either the front rotor. (axis1), or the rear rotor, (axis 2) or centrally, between both rotors. (axis 3).
I had a dislike for them after a visit to RNAD Perth in Scotland where several remains were in a hangar after having had meshing problems with the rotors.Comment
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Hi, decided to take my eyes away from the rotor heads for a while and work on the belly bumps. I guess they were different on the prototype that Airfix has with it all the way from the front undercarriage to the back. The later version as shown in references start just before the first window stops halfway of the fuselage with a gap for the stowage hook or searchlight I think and continues till just after the second window. The bump on the Airfix kit was so iffy that I thought it was a mold defect and sanded it down. Here's the replacement with half rod tubes as a guide and part of it that I have puttied and sanded...
I have also inserted a length of plastic tube to guide the rotor shafts so they don't wobble all over the place.
That's it for now.
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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Thanks Jim, when I wanted a challenge I wasn't expecting it to be this hard. I guess if I had done the prototype as per the kit it would have been half bad. Like shooting myself in the foot with every glance at the kit I see something that needs rectifying or modifying. Even the the aerial needs modification which sits on a box like structure...headache...but enjoying the torture and getting an education on heli stuff from Doug.
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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Hi guys, todays work in progress...rudder pedals and instrument panel.
The parts for the pedals...the large block are the four slices sandwiched with PVA which I'll sand to form the foot pedals.
After the sanding I've got four pedals.
front and back of the assembled pedals.
IP in progress with bezels marked out for drilling.
Bezels drilled out and dry fitted to mark the dials to be painted in separate colors before sandwiching the panels together. Work will continue tonight after dinner.
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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