Doug's 1/48 Airfix Sea King
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Not a lot going on. SWMBO has managed to bash the ankle of the leg she injured a couple of years back and it has swollen to ridiculous proportions!!! So icky here has assumed double everything duties. I even put the washing out!!! A taboo in normal circumstances.
So, as a result only minor progress has been made at the bench!!
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My home made aerials painted white!! Landing light fitted and lower and tail anti - collision lights fitted.
Did some ferreting about in the shed to try and find a suitable item to make the long HF aerial that is on the port side. Cracked open my old survival kit as I knew, (hoped), there was something of use. Found some fishing line, (nylon), and some brass or copper wire for making snares. So may enlist them to assist the 'King' survive!!!! (Oh dear).
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Had to chuckle at the reference to the water carriers!!! - Two condoms! Evidently they will hold a full litre of water!!! I'll take there word for that!!!
Did a bit of reading my log book and found XV663 featured a fair bit. Just one small extract. Names of other crew members removed for persec. reasons!
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Well as they say - that's all folks!! (for now)Comment
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Question relating to attaching both/either, the fishing line aerial or if I use the brass wire.
What glue CA, TET or other would you guys recommend?
It will be from two of the points highlighted plus another near the tail!! Not very big and I imagine quite flimsy!!
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Thanks for any guidance chaps.Comment
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Me, I usually rig with a slow 'medium' CA. But that's just what works for me, giving a bit of wiggle room
BTW I've seen it a couple of times, but what IS TET?Comment
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Doug, I'd use CA glue for that too. Styrene cement won't bond either of those materials effectively. White glue / pva / canopy glue would hold it but is too slow drying for this application in my opinion.Comment
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Guest
As Andy says, plastic cement won’t work on brass or nylon. It works by dissolving the plastic, so the material of both parts runs together, and then evaporating so they stay mixed and thus, the parts joined. However, nylon won’t dissolve in it, let alone brass, of course. Plastic cement may work sort of to bond plastic kit parts to nylon or brass, but that’s only because the plastic will melt and get moulded to the shape of the nylon or the brass, trapping it — which is nowhere near as strong a bond.
So I’d say: superglue for either.Comment
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Ah, TET
"I don't care how 'bleep' runny it is!"
From what I've heard of that it's way too thin for the 'spot-weld' job of attaching any wiring / riggingComment
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Try using the rigging material they use on ship kits and bi-planes, Ushi van der Rosen is one brand I have. You attach one end with c/a, let it dry and then stretch slightly to the other contact point and c/a it it will shrink back and look tight.Comment
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I used Uschi van der Rosten thread and superglue as described by Mike bOn the bench: Airfix 1/48 Sea King HC4, Revell 1/24 Trabant.
Coming soon: Airfix 1/72 Phantom FGR2.
Just finished: Airfix 1/48 Stuka & Airfix 1/72 Sea King HC4.Comment
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Thank you Steve, Jakko, Tim, Mike and Rick for your advice regards the aerial fixing and suggestions. The door I am going to use the bras wire!!
The longer HF aerial, I'll try and source some from Johns shop as many the Uschi 'stuff' is out of stock in many places. I'm at a stage where I can afford a few days or so as I have just put a gloss varnish coat over the King and will be otherwise employed tomorrow, (SWMBO has a new list).
Mike, Your SK books, envy!! I only have two reference books re helicopters. One is the history of FAA helicopter from 1948 to the Merlin/Wildcat era. The second is one I contributed to and is the operational history of the Wasp.Comment
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Back to the build!
After the advice above, I had a go at attaching some brass wire to the front port access door to replicate the wire stays that hold the lower door at the correct angle for access and also used for raising the door when closing!
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The length will be dictated when the door is affixed in place once all the masking is removed and decals in place.
Next I prep'd ready for a coat of gloss varnish. A light IPA wash, lunch, then applied the varnish. Now it is left until Saturday.
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Gloss varnish applied. Sat in my improvised spray booth. Courtesy of a recent amazon delivery!!!
On another note. Airbrush has been acting strange since I last put some varnish through it. When I depress the finger button for air, I start to get bubbles come through the pot!! Stripped it down, cleaned thoroughly, reassembled and this time air was coming through the nozzle without me pressing the finger control!!! Stripped down again and scratched my bonce. When I re assembled the problem disappeared. Seems only after I use varnish. Used Vallejo airbrush cleaner and IPA to wipe clean after. It's had a brush through using t hose mini brushes for airbrushes. Any ideas chaps if it re-occurs????Comment
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