Doug's 1/48 Airfix Sea King

[Waspie]

If a mic-tel lead is a coiled cable like the kind you used to get on keyboards, then it looks good to me :smiling3: Those decals for behind the exhaust already seemed unlikely to me when Rick was building his, and I think you proved it beyond any doubt that most people would be better off just painting those patches instead.

The mic-tel is indeed a v-long coiled lead. It allows a back seat crew member to remain in contact when moving around the whole cabin area. I may now attempt to build a couple more for the crew stations. (2 pilots + 2 back seaters) There are more but I think 4 + the long one may well be enough.

As for the exhaust decal. My thoughts are anyone considering building this Airfix kit. Then disregard the decals. Mark off and mask up the area then paint prior to ANY decals being affixed. The decals are very inflexible and unsuitable for negotiating the humps and bumps of the aft gearbox area - port side.

Thanks Jakko for your confirmation of what two of us on here have now experienced difficulties with.:thumb2:

[Waspie]

Finished with all the decals! Repainted the exhaust bodge a darker shade, I'm happier with the result. It will be covered in exhaust detritus in a few days!!

Managed to do a few more mic-tel leads today. Hopefully I'll be able to attach them with no hassle.

Pic 1
Exhaust decal cover up = 3 parts nato black and 2 parts dark sea grey 4 parts thinning agent. Hand painted!! Nice to have had a few rivet lines to use to keep me on the straight and level!!


Pic 2
I'll cut the coils to length when I can get inside the cabin area.


Finishing line is now in sight. Port cabin door to fit, plus the port pitot tube and now a HF stanchion. A coat of matt varnish. Followed by a dark wash, (advice will be needed prior to doing that. - Another Waspie first). (I'll be You-Tubing it as well but that can get too confusing.) Then some weathering/dirtying up and job will be complete!!! A couple of tiny probes to fit after masking comes off windscreen. Maybe a week's work at my current work rate!!!

Thanks for looking in - any Q's, comments, criticisms or general mud slinging - all welcomed.

Doug

[Waspie]

Progress has been slow of late, well, backwards really I guess!!
I put a matt varnish coat over the decals to seal it all in. Great I thought. Step nearing the finishing line!!
THEN I read a wash needs to go over a 'gloss' coat!! (:unamused:!! Round spherical things!! oop. As it happens, I noticed I hadn't painted the air bags on the undercarriage sponsons so quickly rectified that!!
Now, a day later than planned, the 'King' sits with a fresh coat of gloss varnish on it, now waiting for that to cure then I can attack with a Vallejo black wash. (I use Vallejo paints). It'll be my first attempt at a wash and to be honest I have read so much I am in a state of confusion - but, nothing new there so it will be a massive learning curve!!!

I did manage to prepare the mic-tel leads, they are now black!!

Pic 1
Just need to decide on length and locations to place them. (Tweezers permitting!!!!)


And finally - the sun has finally decided to make an appearance after a whole day of dank, wet miserable weather!!!
For those of you workers in the UK - enjoy your day off tomorrow!!! Same old - same old for us pensioners!!!! Just another day in paradise. Wet but paradise!!!!

[Waspie]

Attacked the king today with a wash! Completed 75% and have mixed feelings over the result.
Wash used was the Vallejo black wash.
I settled on a method whereby I painted the wash over the rivet lines and general dividing lines, such as breaks in the airframe!! Then I washed over the whole area. I then started wiping the wash with a tissue with a dab of airbrush thinner, finishing off with a cotton bud.
The area was certainly a tad darker due to the wash. Part of me likes the effect, makes it look dirty, which used ASW Mk5's did, well my squadrons did.
I'll let you all make your minds up. I really would appreciate any comments or criticism as it's my first attempt.
Pic 1
Unwashed side. (Well, unwashed as far as aft of the roundel!).


Pic 2
The complete port side has received a wash. Doorway never received a wash as it's only being used as a blank for the open door that it will end up with!


Pic 3
Closer shot of the tail cone which has been coated in wash!


Thanks for looking in. Comments most welcome.

Doug

[vizenz]

Hi Doug,
I can't really tell the difference in the pictures. But of course I've worked with washes like this often enough that I understand what you mean.
Personally, I wouldn't use acrylic washes for such effects as they are far too difficult to control. I would always either use a glossy varnish layer to seal and work on top with enamel washes - or on a matt or semi-matt surface with oil washes. Both have the advantage that you can simply remove the effect if you don't like something. This is very difficult with acrylic washes.

[scottie3158]

Doug that is looking the nuts mate.

[Waspie]

Hi Doug,
I can't really tell the difference in the pictures. But of course I've worked with washes like this often enough that I understand what you mean.
Personally, I wouldn't use acrylic washes for such effects as they are far too difficult to control. I would always either use a glossy varnish layer to seal and work on top with enamel washes - or on a matt or semi-matt surface with oil washes. Both have the advantage that you can simply remove the effect if you don't like something. This is very difficult with acrylic washes.

Thank you Andreas. This was my first attempt with a wash. It was done over a gloss varnish. I find the whole wash thing really complicated. (Only my first year with the hobby and only my fourth kit). Take age into account and I hit overload with all there is on YouTube and online.
If I'm honest, the enamel thing quite scary as I've never used it before.
I guess with a bit more experience and a few more models under my belt I may get adventurous and dabble with enamels. Appreciate your input. :thumb2: :smiling3:

[Waspie]

Doug that is looking the nuts mate.

Thanks Paul. TBH starting, scared the oop: out of me. Thinking about all the ways it could go wrong. As it happened, one of the effects I was after occurred. Making it look dirtier!! However, enhancing the rivet lines and such didn't quite work out how I was imagining!!!

[rickoshea52]

It is hard to tell from photos but it looks just fine to me. Remember though that your weathering should be applied just like the real thing, in layers and over time. Try not to rush and if it looks just about right it probably is; with experience and practice you’ll get to know when enough is enough.
I agree with your sentiment over focussing a little more on bigger gaps and join lines. In my opinion, too many modellers overdo the more subtle panel lines, especially in smaller scale aircraft, than is realistic, I tend to focus on moving parts like flying controls or access doors rather than panel lines.
Get some oil streaks, comp wash staining and exhaust soot and she’ll look even better - but be subtle!

[Waspie]

It is hard to tell from photos but it looks just fine to me. Remember though that your weathering should be applied just like the real thing, in layers and over time. Try not to rush and if it looks just about right it probably is; with experience and practice you’ll get to know when enough is enough.
I agree with your sentiment over focussing a little more on bigger gaps and join lines. In my opinion, too many modellers overdo the more subtle panel lines, especially in smaller scale aircraft, than is realistic, I tend to focus on moving parts like flying controls or access doors rather than panel lines.
Get some oil streaks, comp wash staining and exhaust soot and she’ll look even better - but be subtle!

Cheers Rick. Certainly won't be rushing. Mrs W has seen the weather forecast and gardening has suddenly become a priority.
Question? Can you layer the wash to get a darker effect or add more depth?
I'm cleaning off as much as I can in the larger areas and leaving more of the wash in places I think that need the definition. Inside of the strake and the tail fold for example. Don't know if you used it in the RAF, but PX24 used to leave a fair bit of streaking on the exterior unlike the good ole days of WD40 which tended to shine the airframe rather than dirty it.
I went out to the garage a short while ago and having left it for a few hours the colour change of the decals having a wash and the decals that haven't, the effect is very close!
Out of interest, what do you do to simulate soot from the exhausts?
Thanks again Rick for your input, most appreciated. :thumb2:

[Scratchbuilder]

During my service career I 'bumped' into him on many occasion. Not one 'bump' did him any favours as far as respect goes. Even SWMBO thinks he's a sleaze ball, her words after a visit to the local VHS shop on Fraggle. He was perusing the under the counter bottom shelf Vids!!!

Same squadron, 706, he came into the crew room asking for a back seater to sit on the radar during a check test flight he was to fly. Amazing how quick. crew room can clear!!!! We all have doctors, dental simulator checks to attend.

Being in the Guards, we came into contact with the Royals a lot, and being tasked with providing escort along with the royal security we would be taken on a 'shoot' with them to the country estate of whoever was providing the drinks.... The amount of times we had to politely remove a Holland & Holland from the younger royals before one lost ones future King were numerous.

[rickoshea52]

We applied PX-24 on the landing gears and bay, around the tail fold break; not much if I recall on SK’s. Post wash lube on a Nimrod was different thought, tons of the stuff. One over enthusiastic liney over did it so much the aircraft tug tyres wheel spun and couldn’t tow the jet off the wash pan.
The most important part of the lube on a SK for us was the rotor heads and being sure to wipe off all excess grease, other wise as soon as the rotors are engaged the cab is filthy again.
For exhaust staining I use Tamiya smoke thinned 50/50 and slowly built up.

[Waspie]

We applied PX-24 on the landing gears and bay, around the tail fold break; not much if I recall on SK’s. Post wash lube on a Nimrod was different thought, tons of the stuff. One over enthusiastic liney over did it so much the aircraft tug tyres wheel spun and couldn’t tow the jet off the wash pan.
The most important part of the lube on a SK for us was the rotor heads and being sure to wipe off all excess grease, other wise as soon as the rotors are engaged the cab is filthy again.
For exhaust staining I use Tamiya smoke thinned 50/50 and slowly built up.

I never worked on Sea Kings. But a Wessex rotor head if we did a head grease properly, some 56 grease nipples and many - many Kg of XG284. Made my day when a pneumatic grease gun came into common use!! Hated a head grease!!!
Naval aircraft, fresh water every day if used. In days of yor it was a complete cab wipe with WD40 then cost kicked in and the cheaper PX24 replaced it. Sad day for appearances.

[Waspie]

During a very busy day I did manage to finish off the initial wash on the SK5. I also attached, (finally) the tail rotor.
I decided to go into experimental mode and mixed up a concoction of paint to simulate oil streaking/contamination. Left over wash, a dash of Beetle orange, a drop of tyre black, and two drops of Nato Green. A good stir with a brush and ended up with a rusty kinda oil coloured mix!! That'll do I thought. (Casting my mind back to when I was an aircraft mechanic - one of our manuals stated specific oils could be identified by their brown, green, reddish purple black hue!! OK I thinks, that's pretty broad brush - works for me).
Using a fine brush started applying it tot he places I remembered oil running down. By the rescue hoist, then over the sliding cabin door. Remembering it is now in the open position - but closed in flight!! Then the port side, similar position. Coming down from the vicinity of the main gearbox! Added a light dab to the blade fold mechanism but I think you'll need a spy glass to spot that. Subtle. Unlike my wash!!!!
Added a bit more wash over parts that needed dirtying up a bit more.
Looks ok to the naked eye but the images really do show my heavy handed first attempt, still finding my own way!!

Pic 1
Comparison image of a work horse!


Pic 2
My work horse!!
Still have work to do on engine staining/soot etc.


Pic 2
Port Side


Pic 4
Port side closer image with my version of oil staining!!!


Lost a couple of small decals during my heavy handed application of the cotton buds.
Question! Would using the micro set/sol give a firmer/stronger bond between decal and model?

Time permitting, tomorrow I may mix up a exhaust soot mix thanks to Andy's recipe.:thumb2:

Thoughts, comments good or bad very welcome. Not the prettiest Sk in the world but I don't remember them being pretty - just workable!!

Thanks again for all comments and suggestions and of course for looking in.
Doug

[Guest]

Micro Set is essentially a glue, intended to make decals stick better. Sol makes them softer so they conform to the surface better, which logically means the glue on the decal (whether the one it came with or the Micro Set) has more area to grip and so should stick the decal down more firmly.