Airfix 1/72nd Westland Sea King HC.4

[Mark1]

Oops

[Mark1]

Thats interesting as I find the same with tamiya tape. The adhesive is so thick that the tape "floats" around on it, making accurate masking tricky.

Might have to give the Mr hobby stuff a go :thumb2:

Thought it was just me that thought that.:smiling6:

[stillp]

I'll be honest, I was going to buy some masking tape but found an old roll of white masking tape I had here, but it's just normal every day masking tape.

There's your problem Steve. Think of it as a learning exercise, and well done for having a go. I wouldn't have been brave enough to mask that camo on a helicopter.
Pete

[Guest]

There's your problem Steve. Think of it as a learning exercise, and well done for having a go. I wouldn't have been brave enough to mask that camo on a helicopter.
Pete

Thank you.

[Miko]

Just ordered some low adhesive masking tape from the shop, it's too late for this model but hopefully this won't happen next time.
it's just a case of damage limitation with this model, I've decided it would be wrong to give in and bin it, I need to keep it as a lesson,
so I'm just going to 'attempt' to paint over the damage by hand, yes there will be brush lines but I don't care, I just want this done and forgotten now. haha

Don't let it beat you! you've learned from your mistake so time to come up with a solution

If it were mine I'd strip the paint back to bare plastic and repaint, you're never going to be happy with brush painting.

It'll take time and won't be easy, but it can be done!

Imagine how you'll feel once it's got it's nice new coat of paint, the sense of achievement will be huge!

The secret to a great paint job is preparation preparation preparation!!


Miko (on three. . . 1 - 2- 3: Gooooooooooooooo SteveT!!)

[Guest]

Stripping it back would be the best option but not a route I feel I want to go down. I'm liable to do some damage trying to sand various bits of it getting all the paint off.

You're right about the brush painting though, just had a go on one side and although it looks better than the disaster, it looks like an eight year old painted it. (no offence to any eight year old modellers here)

I will finish it, but it'll then be hidden in a dark place away from any eyes. haha!

[Miko]

Stripping it back would be the best option but not a route I feel I want to go down. I'm liable to do some damage trying to sand various bits of it getting all the paint off.

I meant chemical paint strip, which paint type do you use?

Miko (I wouldn't sand paint to strip it)

[The Smythe Meister]

.......
so I'm just going to 'attempt' to paint over the damage by hand, yes there will be brush lines but I don't care, I just want this done and forgotten now. haha

Not necessarily Steve, make sure you thin the paint well and apply many thin layers, just as you would if spraying,that way you should'nt get brush marks. :thumb2:

[Guest]

I meant chemical paint strip, which paint type do you use?

Miko (I wouldn't sand paint to strip it)

Vallejo acrylics with their thinner and a touch of flow improver.

[Miko]

Vallejo acrylics with their thinner and a touch of flow improver.

A fist full of cotton buds a bottle of acrylic thinners (recommend Tamiya lacquer thinner) a fresh respirator filter a well ventilated room and you'll be done in no time! certainly quicker than brush painting!

Miko (been there done that, easy peasy)

[Ancientmariner]

Vallejo acrylics I have had more issue with than anything else with tape removing them, even with decent tape. They seem very sensitive to any surface contamination and at best needs to be done very gently. Lacquer based paints I haven't had the same issue with or with the Tamiya series paints.
I have left my Vallejo paints for brush application only now due to this. Incidentally the lacquer based stuff sprays 100 times better as well.

Looking forward to see the finished result when you've repainted those little areas.

[rickoshea52]

Vallejo acrylics I have had more issue with than anything else with tape removing them, even with decent tape. They seem very sensitive to any surface contamination and at best needs to be done very gently. Lacquer based paints I haven't had the same issue with or with the Tamiya series paints.
I have left my Vallejo paints for brush application only now due to this. Incidentally the lacquer based stuff sprays 100 times better as well.

Ditto. Even my MIG Ammo acrylics are about to be relegated. Too many times I’ve have paint peel off with them, never with Tamiya though.

[stillp]

Vallejo acrylics with their thinner and a touch of flow improver.

That'll come off easily with cotton buds dipped in meths. No need to sand, but you might need to use a paintbrush in places the cotton buds won't reach.
Pete

[Scratchbuilder]

I once had a fish head Rodney rush over to me in the shed asking where the heads were, my response of “On your shoulders sir?”, didn’t go down well. When he clarified he meant the lavatory my next response was “Oh! You mean the $h**house?”. He looked like he was about to explode.

One of my favourite RAF slang phrases is “T*ts up on sticks in the shed for a double donk change”.

How about 'Gobbling rods' for knife and fork...

[Guest]

Vallejo acrylics I have had more issue with than anything else with tape removing them, even with decent tape. They seem very sensitive to any surface contamination and at best needs to be done very gently. Lacquer based paints I haven't had the same issue with or with the Tamiya series paints.
I have left my Vallejo paints for brush application only now due to this. Incidentally the lacquer based stuff sprays 100 times better as well.

Looking forward to see the finished result when you've repainted those little areas.

I know diddly squat about lacquer paints. Can you recommend a brand for me to buy? (I just looked for Tamiya but they were acrylics) also what do you thin it with?

Thank you!