Revell 1:32 Mk 22 Spitfire - completed.

[stona]

M1ks the Revell MkI/II 1/32 Spitfire is similar to this one. It needs a bit of work to get anything out of it. It has the same lack of cockpit detail and terrible wheels but with a kit so cheap you might consider some after market enhancements.

The wheels/tyres in the Mk22/24 kit are plastic,I'll let Colin explain what he's done to them.

While you're at it Colin how did you find the decals? They look okay but you never know. I'm tempted by the stripey Hong Kong version.

Cheers

Steve

[colin m]

Thanks Allyne, but I do agree, about the shape of these later Spitfires, an earlier one would have been nice, and I've always prefered the green and brown camo scheme to the grey and green.

Well, the tamiya Spitfire, I'm tempted, but the next big model for me will be the Vickers Valiant, due to be released soon. But I will be having a look at Tamiya's 1:48 offerings. The decals went on great, I use micro sol and set. The white on the decals doesn't seem thin at all and so should cover whatever is underneath.

M1ks, the tyres are from the kit and are indeed plastic. They come in two halves which means a nasty line right around the circumference. So, I sanded this away which made the tyres look quite worn, I'm not sure real tyres would ever get this worn, but it looks ok. Then painted them with matt black, mixed with a touch of dark grey. So, basically the tyres are very dark grey. If you have a look at a car tyre, it's never the same colour all the way around, lots of varying shades. This is were pastels come in. I used a dark grey pastel and brushed it on all over the tyre to get the final effect. It really is easy, anyone can do it, no special skill required. I normally use pastels a lot to finish a model off.

Regards

Colin M......

[spanner570]

Colin, that is one very, very nice model. Although I haven't posted I have been following the progress.

I too like the photography angles.

Yep, all in all a cracking job, well done.

Ron

[stona]

Thanks for the info Colin

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

OK, simpler than I thought and I know about the colour variation, theres always a hint of grey / brown or similar but although I never use a straight matte black (except on very small model planes) I just never seem to get a tyre coloured looking tyre whereas yours on this build look very rubbery and realistic.

So just Tamiya matte black and dark grey, any particular grey?

[Guest]

great job. excellent paint job. the photos really make it stand out.

[colin m]

OK, simpler than I thought and I know about the colour variation, theres always a hint of grey / brown or similar but although I never use a straight matte black (except on very small model planes) I just never seem to get a tyre coloured looking tyre whereas yours on this build look very rubbery and realistic.So just Tamiya matte black and dark grey, any particular grey?

I'm actually still using Humbrol enamels, but it wont make any difference what brand is used. And the grey is just a very dark grey, sea grey or something similar.

Thanks Jim, for having a look.

Regards

Colin M...........

[Guest]

I'm with Richard pic #5 just looks soooooooooooooo real .5Star build, you should be very proud

[colin m]

Thanks Trey,

I'll be honest, I'm not a photographer by any means, I just take loads of pics, and delete nearly all of them saving just a few. Pic 5 was one of the lucky ones that escaped the delete button !

Regards

Colin M........

[Guest]

Nicely done. I have the same kit. I haven't decided how I will finish and mark it.

If I can be allowed one critical remark: down play the panel lines. Some of the lines depicted on this model scaled up to 1:1 would be in the neighborhood of 9-10mm (3/8 inch) gaps. Like I said, I have the kit and am in the process of filling in all panel lines before I build it. In reality, most of the panels, especially non-removable skins, were lap joints where one skin over-lapped the other rather than butted up together. These can be rendered with a small, subtle line (scribed with a sharp knife through the final finish then dusted with contrasting chalk) and look much more accurate. Most of the removable cowlings and access panels were butt-jointed to be flush with the surrounding skins. Overall, though, nicely done and finished and I hope my critical remarks don't spoil that for you.

Note: None of the model making companies distinguish between lap and butt joints when making molds. They all end up looking like butt joints and this is where their collective efforts to produce truly accurate scale details fall way short. It's a minor point to most and major one to few - like me - who would like them to go the distance. This is due to consumer feedback requesting panel detail work so they compromised by making all joints butt types. It's up to the modeler to know the airplanes - visiting museums, researching published works, etc. - in order to effect the proper look of each type modeled. I'm just an anal aircraft mechanic with 35 years of knowledge and little patience for model companies that have had more years than that to get things right.

[colin m]

Hello Sweb,

No problem with your comments, and of course, you are dead right about the panel lines, they are too big. If I was going fill them and re-scribe I would need to make sure they were all in the correct place. Indeed did some, or all of these lines exist. Whilst my skills allow me to scribe the odd panel line or two, to re-scribe a whole model is a bit beyond me. With this in mind, I suppose I am guilty of turning a blind eye to how manufacturers depict there panel lines and willing to accept what they give me.

But again thanks for your input, I'm sure your knowledge will be of great use to many people, including me, on this forum.

Regards

Colin M.......

[Centurion3RTR]

Beautiful Spit and deserves five from me too.

Have fun, John

[colin m]

Thanks John,

As you may have seen, these models are a little challenging to put together ! So, it's now time for some "Gardennig leave" for me.

Regards

Colin M........

[stona]

down play the panel lines. Some of the lines depicted on this model scaled up to 1:1 would be in the neighborhood of 9-10mm (3/8 inch) gaps. This is due to consumer feedback requesting panel detail work so they compromised by making all joints butt types.

You are absolutely correct on both points. I'm making one of these at the moment and originally intended to fill everything in and do it "properly" but in the end I just couldn't be arsed! Particularly when I spotted a few of the other problems the kit has.

I was surprised that such an old kit had recessed lines at all as I always thought it was easier to make raised lines (obviously resessed on the mould) using the old drawing/tool making techniques. Maybe that's why they are sooo big.

A lot of newer kits have relatively subtle recessed lines largely due to design improvements. Where would they be without their CAD and computer controlled cutting tools? You'll know from looking at the real thing that injection moulding a lap joint,in scale,is not possible. As you said,the manufacturers are trying to give the consumer what he wants but are limited by the technology of the method.

Thanks for the comments. Colin took them in the spirit in which they were intended,as I hope we all would. Learning is the whole point of the forum.

Cheers

Steve