I have found it best not to soak decals at all. I have a decal bath. I lay the decals on the serrated plastic base with the backing upmost. Then I give short a squirt of water from an indoor plastic flower squirter. Just enough to damp the backing. Wet the plastic and lay the decal with its backing on the plastic in its final position and just slide the backing away from the decal "not the decal from the backing". No need for any Micros except in exceptional circumstances.
If you use Micros they will soften the decal and make it more difficult to position as the decal has lost surface tension (the water floats the decal) that water has. Micros will also weaken the decal as they soften the decal material.
My advice is water. Only use Micros as a last resort where the decal is in position and wrinkles have occurred or .where silvering is a problem.
I have used the above method time and time again and even very complicated decals bending in 3 directions have gone down perfectly.
It does help to make sure that as smooth a surface as possible is achieved to the paint surface. If a really smooth surface can be achieved I have found there is no need for a gloss varnish surface. Another thing which I have found is to cut around up to the decal, which is not always possible, but if you can it takes out any possibility of silvering plus it look better as you do not have a border around the decal which even without silvering is very obvious
Laurie
If you use Micros they will soften the decal and make it more difficult to position as the decal has lost surface tension (the water floats the decal) that water has. Micros will also weaken the decal as they soften the decal material.
My advice is water. Only use Micros as a last resort where the decal is in position and wrinkles have occurred or .where silvering is a problem.
I have used the above method time and time again and even very complicated decals bending in 3 directions have gone down perfectly.
It does help to make sure that as smooth a surface as possible is achieved to the paint surface. If a really smooth surface can be achieved I have found there is no need for a gloss varnish surface. Another thing which I have found is to cut around up to the decal, which is not always possible, but if you can it takes out any possibility of silvering plus it look better as you do not have a border around the decal which even without silvering is very obvious
Laurie
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