Scale Model Shop

Collapse

Polishing compound

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Guest

    #1

    Polishing compound

    Do any of you guys use polishing compound for canopies, what are the benefits of it, I always more on the lines of just painting the canopies and then using the Klear stuff to give it a more of a glass look and shine.
  • yak face
    Moderator
    • Jun 2009
    • 13826
    • Tony
    • Sheffield

    #2
    Hi shazad , I too just use Klear to give it a better shine and protect it a bit more . I would only use any sort of polishing on a canopy if it was scratched or marked in some way and then only to restore it to clarity , then it would get the klear treatment . cheers tony

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      Cheers Tony

      Comment

      • Guest

        #4
        I use it if I have to remove any seam lines from a canopy. I then use the three Tamiya polishing grits until it shines. Then a dip in Future and it's clear and clean of any scratches.

        Ray

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Beware polishing compounds, since some are spirit-based, and will damage the plastic. The formulae might have changed, but we always had to use Silvo, instead of Brasso, for that reason. For simple polishing, I've used Micromesh (wet) for years, and find it's ideal for removing mould lines and scratches, as well.

          Edgar

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Originally posted by \
            Beware polishing compounds, since some are spirit-based, and will damage the plastic. The formulae might have changed, but we always had to use Silvo, instead of Brasso, for that reason. For simple polishing, I've used Micromesh (wet) for years, and find it's ideal for removing mould lines and scratches, as well.Edgar
            Edgar what is Micromesh ? Not heard of it. Just a bit of fun but were you wet or the micromesh during the process ?

            Laurie

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              It's a cloth-backed "sandpaper," which can be used wet or dry, which has tiny pieces of abrasive material embedded in flexible base. As you sand, they rotate, slightly, to align with your sanding action (that's what the sales blurb says, anyway.) You should only sand in a straight line, then, when you move to the next grit in the series, sand at right-angles, change down, sand at right-angles, etc. It's made in America, but available in the U.K. from the likes of Hannant's, Little Cars, and the finest grit is 12000; car modellers use it to get their glass-like finish, and it's superb for sanding smooth primers before Alclad, so there are no scratches. I used it at work, and was able to get an etched fingerprint out of a celluloid face to an instrument, and make saltwater-damaged aluminium resemble chrome. As it's cloth-based, it can be washed out in clean water, dried and reused; properly cared for it'll last for years..

              Comment

              Working...