Hi Team, most kits I have built come with tissue paper for finishing. Instructions are vague and unclear. Is it possible to get a straight line cut using a modelling knife?. I seem to tare the tissue and it seems an impossible job. I end up using scissors and gone is the neat and tidy finish. Also is it possible to mask tissue paper prior to painting by brush?.
balsa aero kit 'skinning'
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Sure is, but you need a brand new blade before skinning, and I'm talking Swann Morton, they have the edge (Arf) on the competition due to the thickness of blade and angle of edge. Some folks tack the edges with dope, then shrink, then trim the excess and use a brush and dope to wrap around the overlap, which should be less than 5 mm. If you do the lower surface first, trim it as per the above, then do the upper surface, it'll look asreally neat and tidy. Cutting the tissue to the exact size will often end in tears (the crying type!) as it is really tricky to line it up accurately. Use the dope thinned for gluing edges, keeps the weight down! -
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Actually, depending upon the scale of your 'plane, you might want to thin the dope anyway, if it is a small 'plane, then full strength dope can be a little harsh on the fine structure, and pull it into twists. If you've never done this before, it would pay you to practice a bit on some spare balsa, even make up a simple wing from som off cuts and make your first mistakes on that!Comment
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Originally posted by \Sure is, but you need a brand new blade before skinning, and I'm talking Swann Morton, they have the edge (Arf) on the competition due to the thickness of blade and angle of edge. Some folks tack the edges with dope, then shrink, then trim the excess and use a brush and dope to wrap around the overlap, which should be less than 5 mm. If you do the lower surface first, trim it as per the above, then do the upper surface, it'll look asreally neat and tidy. Cutting the tissue to the exact size will often end in tears (the crying type!) as it is really tricky to line it up accurately. Use the dope thinned for gluing edges, keeps the weight down!Comment
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Guest
Yeah, it's a big learning curve, especially these days, as there are far fewer folks building these models now. When I was a kid, we all made Keil-Kraft gliders and rubber powered spitfires, so it became common knowledge! But it is good to see folks carry on a lovely tradition, I did a lot of RC planes a few years back, but mostly with solar film and solar tex, but my background with Keil-Kraft stood me in good stead!Comment
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Guest
Originally posted by \Yeah, it's a big learning curve, especially these days, as there are far fewer folks building these models now. When I was a kid, we all made Keil-Kraft gliders and rubber powered spitfires, so it became common knowledge! But it is good to see folks carry on a lovely tradition, I did a lot of RC planes a few years back, but mostly with solar film and solar tex, but my background with Keil-Kraft stood me in good stead!Comment
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Hi John, the glider is near completion now. As for the flying setup, would you set the fin at an angle so as it flies in a circle. This is not mentioned in instructions?Comment
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Maybe a trim tab fitted to the fin, like a rudder? I'd have a close look at the plan to see if there is any offset already in there. The only glider I made was a very long time ago and that that a tow line device, that when airborne, the release of the towline flicked the rudder to one side. Has it got angled wing tips?Comment
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Originally posted by \Maybe a trim tab fitted to the fin, like a rudder? I'd have a close look at the plan to see if there is any offset already in there. The only glider I made was a very long time ago and that that a tow line device, that when airborne, the release of the towline flicked the rudder to one side. Has it got angled wing tips?Comment
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