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Panel Scribing Line?

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  • takeslousyphotos
    • Apr 2013
    • 3900

    #1

    Panel Scribing Line?

    As the title suggests I have a question or two. I'm going to give this a go to see if I can make a complete hash of it. I have the tools for the job ready to go ...........First question is when is it normally done ??? Before or after Primer, Basecoat or when? ............. and is it normal to give every panel line a scribe or just control surface lines ???
  • stona
    SMF Supporters
    • Jul 2008
    • 9889

    #2
    Do it before any kind of painting. I usually only re-scribe lost detail caused during construction. How much you scribe really depends on the kit and what you like the look of. I highly recommend using some kind of guide to keep your lines straight. I use 'Dymo' tape as a guide. Make sure you keep the scriber aligned with (i.e.parallel to) the tape as you scribe.


    I absolutely guarantee that you will slip off line and need to repair the resultant 'damage' at some stage


    I've heard of people scribing with everything from pins to knife blades, but again, I suggest a decent scribe. Mine's from Bare Metal Foil, but other brands make good tools too.


    Cheers


    Steve

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    • takeslousyphotos
      • Apr 2013
      • 3900

      #3
      Thanks Steve. I have a Tamiya scribing tool, a tungsten carbide engineers scriber and Dymo tape at the ready. I'll be giving it a go on a Mig-21....... I figure maybe it's best not to get too ambitious to start with so I might just start with scribing around control surfaces and see how I get on............

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      • Guest

        #4
        Agree with Steve especially the guarantee on slipping off the line. Also guaranteed is a fair number of rustic words.


        I would go for a scribing tool (just about to contradict scribing) that actually removes a small slither of plastic to produce the panel line. As Steve has mentioned I found Bare Metal Foil is perfect as is the Tamiya Scriber both of which remove that slither. Bare metal is I have found especially good in difficult area to get into. The actual pointed needle types I just find tend to bruise the plastic and raise up the plastic on either side of the panel line.


        One point to make sure of is to protect the cutting edges as they are quickly ruined and will take more than a slither. Also I use, after completing the panel line and a carefull wet and dry to clean up, a thin coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 which smooths the panel line.


        Laurie

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        • papa 695
          Moderator
          • May 2011
          • 22770

          #5
          Peter to start with just to get an idea how it works try it first on some old plastic like a yogurt pot or some plasticard draw some lines on it then put the Dymo tape on then see what pressure you need to scribe lines the lighter the better just go over the line a couple of times

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          • takeslousyphotos
            • Apr 2013
            • 3900

            #6
            Thanks gents....... I think practice is the way forward on this one.

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            • Guest

              #7
              I tried the Tamiya tool, it's not bad. I have since filed a small cheap tool that likes like a dental pick to start my panel lines.


              no real pressure just the tool weight and a touch more. Then I move on to my squadron tools scriber which I thought was crap oob. I filed that a bit and it does a great job now.


              I have only done car bodies which require scribing almost all the way in the panel lines and a little bit everywhere else. In still getting the hang of it.


              I find both these easier than the Tamiya and they do way less damage if you slip

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              • takeslousyphotos
                • Apr 2013
                • 3900

                #8
                ..... Think I better send the Angle Grinder back then.

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                • stona
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 9889

                  #9
                  Yeah! Don't overdo it.


                  More seriously, go lightly rather than heavy. You can always make a second pass, or more. Going at it too heavily vastly increases the chances of that slip


                  Cheers


                  Steev

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                  • Guest

                    #10
                    Yeah the technique is definitely lots of light passes not heavy ones. I wouldn't know about plane panel lines, I only go heavy on cars as they technically are right through

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                    • Ian M
                      Administrator
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 18264
                      • Ian
                      • Falster, Denmark

                      #11
                      Another useful tool is a short metal rule not a heavy one but something thin with a bit of spring in. Dymo tape it good but I find that it is a pain to get in the right place and it soon loses its sticky. Often letting go when you least want it to.


                      Also if the kit you are doing this to has raised detail, you can if careful follow the raised detail with your chosen weapon and then sand off the raised detail afterwards.


                      Hatches, filler caps and the like are best done with a set of guides John has some good ones in the shop. Lion


                      Roar I think. They have several that can help with circles, square and oval hatches.
                      Group builds

                      Bismarck

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