Tamiya & Deans Connectors

[wonwinglo]

Well nothing is going to move there Ian ?

[Guest]

I didn't mention that I posted all the above in the event it may have been usefull to someone.

I know how gratefull I feel when I read of interesting things in members posts, you could call it, returning the help.

[Guest]

I wonder if RTV (room temperature vulcanisation) rubber might have applications here too. Advantages are flexible, insulating, heat-proof, mold-able using box method described in previous post for Isopon. (Just grease the mold with Vaseline). Bath sealant is basically the same and comes in colours which might be useful. The latter is 24 hour curing but craft shop ( or Tiranti ) RTV can be quicker to cure. I have never used any of these for this purpose but worth a try ?

[Guest]

Good point Duncan and maybe in a situation where the cable is being regularly flexed such as a battery terminal it would reduce the high stress at the point where the flex enters the resin.

Probably lots of possibilities here with pro's and con's for each.

[Guest]

I've not used the RTV stuff but have used the "hot melt" type of compound. The RTV will probably be ok but is expensive and has a limited shelf life , about 6 months IIRC.

J.

[Guest]

I'm not sure about the silicone sealer, any I've had is easy to peel off or break when it's not in place between pieces of glass or whatever, though if it is wrapped in something on the connectors, maybe as I tried, insulating tape, it should be OK, but them the tape negates the sealers flexibility.

If I can get my hands on a little I'll certainly give it a try.

[Guest]

One thing to be wary of is that there are some generic Chinese Deans type connectors around (some came with some LiPos I bought) whose dimensions are close but not exactly the same. They are only a few thou different but just enough to make it that you can't mix and match. Be cautious when you buy more, it may be worthwhile taking one of your own plugs just to make sure. For what its worth I don't use Deans, I run Kontronic bullets instead (besides, 2 pin Deans are no good between a brushless motor and its ESC)

[wonwinglo]

Just ordered some small brushless motors Kiwi,which connectors are the best for connection between the motor and esc ?

I do wish that they would standardise on these connectors,it took 30 years and a court case to make those Futaba connectors a industry standard item for radio control work.

On my larger motors have been using gold plated polarity protected plugs.

[Guest]

Barry, all my boats are fitted with soldered cables between the motor and the ESC's as I particularly try to reduce the number of temporary connections wherever possible.

Maybe not the most convenient if you are taking one or the other out on a regular basis but I do not intend removing either unless they fail and soldered is the most efficient and reliable of connections.

[wonwinglo]

A good idea Richard and especially as a voltage loss can occur with some plugs,those awful Tamiya connectors on larger electric motors for example can constrain a volt,I never mind soldering/re-soldering, and as the electric bits are getting cheaper it makes good sense to keep them in your models until necessary to remove them.

[Guest]

With 3 wire brushless motors you really need to go with bullet connectors (either silver or gold), bearing in mind that to change the direction of a brushless you only need to change over any two wires, it can easily be done wuth bullets. I do mine with a 2 + 1 configuration and use coloured heat shrink to code them.