Issue 88-Covering material.

[wonwinglo]

This weeks issue 88 contains a roll of heatshrink red covering material,in view of the amount of internal detail in this model personally I think that it would be sacrilage to hide it with what is really cheap plastic film.

If covering is contemplated then the best choice would be some nylon or even silk laid over a tissue base,this way the tissue forms a good layer from which you can position the covering and the delicate weave would show just like the real fabric material does,plastic iron on film is ok for flying model where weight is a concern but not for a model of this type.

If you do attempt to use the film supplied then you will need a bottle of a material called Balsalok,this is a polymer liquid that is applied lightly with a piece of sponge to the framework,when it is dry it forms a grab from which you can attach the film with an heated iron,I doubt whether iron on film would attach itself to metal framework without this resource,there is also another factor involved which puts me off using iron on film on a model such as this,the structure is far from being smooth and has several humps and bumps due to the nature of the construction,the film would be difficult to attach in these areas,so the choice is yours given these warnings.

Another way around this if you really did want to use film would be to use a Solartex fabric material,this is slightly thicker than other products but does have a realistic fabric weave,it is also available in the blood red colour of the Red Baron model,but once again the structure wuld probably be difficult to cover due to the bumps and irruglarities mentioned,even this material will not answer this dilemma.

I think that I will settle for covering the fin/rudder only with the tissue/nylon idea and leave the beauty of the detail to be seen on the model of a typical aeroplane of that period.

[Guest]

In regard to covering a model with so much internal detail, some museum models cover the top surface of wings, empenage and 3/4 of the fuselage,

leaving the interior readily viewable from some angles and giving the appearance of a covered model from other angles. This would take considerable finesse with the cloth.

There is a company which builds models of astounting detail which uses this method, although their completed 1/15 scale models range in price from $4K-$13K !!

View at:

http://www.fineartmodels.com/pages/product.asp?content_area=3&sub_area=12&product_area=90

They may have a source of reference materials, although I have not yet tried to contact them.

Also, their model shows the webbing woven between the wing ribs near the leading edge as well as near the trailing edge.

Here is an old photo (poor quality) of an original Dr.1 before being covered:

http://www.fokkerdr1.com/Dr1_144-17.jpg

[wonwinglo]

Jeffrey,many thanks for these links,one thing is for sure is that they show how inadequate the parts supplied by Hachette really are in comparison with earlier Fokker Dr.1 models that the series was copied from,look at the gun detail for example and copare it with what we have.

The Hachette model sure is a mongrel and the Hasegawa offering if you can get hold of one would be a far better proposition.

The company producing those built up models,are turning them out fairly cheaply when you consider that the part works model when completed will be some £400,now you would certainly think twice about spending that sort of money on a kit !

[wonwinglo]

Jeffrey,many thanks for these links,one thing is for sure is that they show how inadequate the parts supplied by Hachette really are in comparison with earlier Fokker Dr.1 models that the series was copied from,look at the gun detail for example and copare it with what we have.

The Hachette model sure is a mongrel and the Hasegawa offering if you can get hold of one would be a far better proposition.

The company producing those built up models,are turning them out fairly cheaply when you consider that the part works model when completed will be some £400,now you would certainly think twice about spending that sort of money on a kit !

[wonwinglo]

Jeffrey,many thanks for these links,one thing is for sure is that they show how inadequate the parts supplied by Hachette really are in comparison with earlier Fokker Dr.1 models that the series was copied from,look at the gun detail for example and copare it with what we have.

The Hachette model sure is a mongrel and the Hasegawa offering if you can get hold of one would be a far better proposition.

The company producing those built up models,are turning them out fairly cheaply when you consider that the part works model when completed will be some £400,now you would certainly think twice about spending that sort of money on a kit !

[Guest]

I have been very pleased with the Hasagawa kit. I would have prefered the look of metal fuselage tubing. However with some high quality (ie expensive) paint and careful airbrushing the look is quite nice. The plastic engine with the same care in painting is gorgeous. I have some photos of my model, which is nearing completion. Of course, there is a saying in the homebuilt aircraft community, " 90% done...90% still to go...!

I have no idea how to get my photos attached to these messages. It keeps asking for a "url". I am new at this, as in this is my third message ever.

Out of curiousity, do I understand the term "part works model" to mean you recieve parts over a period of time, as opposed to all in a single kit? This would be a bit frustrating, I would think, especially in regard to prefitting parts and general progress.

There is a replica of a Dr.1 which is built to original specs, including original instruments and engine, at Memorial Flight Association.

Two photos of the uncovered frame as well a series of cockpit photos including detail views are on their site which follows. How truly accurate is it??? I doubt it gets much better.

http://memorial.flight.free.fr/indexuk.html

The above mentioned replica is of Dr.1 489/17

here is a period photo of 489/17

http://fokkerdr1.com/Dr1-489-17_01.jpg

Next is the best cockpit surround photo I have from the period. It was of interest to me because it shows an instrument between the guns, which explains the fairing on the aluminum shroud at that location on the model. Subsequent research (at the above site) confirmed my suspicion that it is an indicator for fuel level.

http://www.fokkerdr1.com/Fok-Dr1-581-17_02.jpg

fokkerdr1.com has a couple dozen period photos of Dr.1s catalogued by aircraft number.

[Guest]

The above mentioned site (Memorial Flight Assoc.) has another 12 photos of 489/17 replica under construction that I missed before. It has a different engine than in the Hasagawa kit.

Their aircraft is using an Oberursel 110 hp which is a copy of a Gnome (aka LeRhone)

The engine my model is identical to a different type LeRhone 110 hp , which was copied by Thulin in Sweden.

Both were actually used on the Dr.1

The two are distinctly different in appearance.

The cowling on the replica is nonstandard.

[wonwinglo]

Jeffrey,regarding the pictures it is easy really,but first you have to place the pictures somewhere such as your homepage or a photo dump bucket,what you then do is copy the picture URL into that box and, hey presto it appears here.

I had not realised that you were not aware that this model is a weekly thing,you are perfectly right about the flustrations as this has been close on two years of ill fitting and poor quality components all of which have had to been dealt with by enthusiasts,just take a look at the archives and you will see what I mean,hardly a week has passed without some problem especially with the clunky metal bits.I had that engine kit for the Oberusel engine,they also did a Le Rhone as well for the Sopwith Camel,I do have one built up so that will eventually be incorporated into my scratch built Camel,that will be made from spruce,alloy and wire.

Regarding the central instrument shroud for the gas indicator this has been made too small on the Hahette example and will need a new piece fabricating,also there should be another castor oil filler pipe which has not been included on the starboard side.

By the way the Red Baron model is now running in Australia as weekly parts,not sure what number it is up to now ?

Thanks for the great picture links,we need anything to get this model looking correct,early shots are scarce and flooded out by replica pictures.

[wonwinglo]

[i have no idea how to get my photos attached to these messages. It keeps asking for a "url". I am new at this, as in this is my third message ever.

*** John has done a tutorial on how to upload pictures,here is the direct link- http://scale-models.co.uk/t660-how-t...-pictures.html

[Guest]

[Guest]

Don't know about Australia but here in New Zealand (home of the Famous Five Fokker Formation) the latest issue is #29

[Guest]

Trying to post pictures...

[wonwinglo]

Trying to post pictures...

***Not sure if you saw my previous message regarding pictures,but here is a tutorial that John our site owner has prepared,follow the instructions carefully-

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/t660-how-to-post-pictures.html

[wonwinglo]

***Jeffrey,if you are still around after such a long gap,we still need to see pictures of your model,what you are doing is trying to link the pictures from your hard drive,forget that and go to Photobucket or a smilar online photo storage system,they are FREE,and free is good around here,simply place your pictures into that resource and once done,right click onto the picture,here you will be able to copy and paste the image URL and transfer it here,that way we can then view your pictures,give it a try you will soon get the hang of things.

Failing that why not place the images into our gallery here ? thats a simple task as it only requires you to upload the pictures from your computer to here.

[Guest]

We are still getting bits here in NZ, we are just up to 98 so are nearly there. I haven't started putting it together yet as I have a house shift pending and will wait until that is out of the way.

Bearing in mind that I therefore haven't seen a complete one I was wondering how covering it with Doculam would go? You would still be able to see all the stucture but the dust wouldn't settle on every little bit. I have covered my R/C He 46 with it and it does indeed go crystal clear.