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Nose weight suggestions

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  • Guest

    #16
    I thought I'd cracked it with these wheel balance weights to be honest but 50g of them will never fit into the available space. Will see how this lead strip turns out and look at the other suggestions for the future.

    And thanks for the glue tip too, will do a bit of research on that.

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    • Gern
      SMF Supporters
      • May 2009
      • 9212

      #17
      I'm sure I read somewhere on here, many moons ago, that it's possible to use foil to make a sort of mould by wrapping it around the area you need to fill, then pouring in liquid lead to make a casting. That seems like a lot of trouble when small lead shot (from fishing suppliers) does a good job. If you're worried about it expanding as a result of reacting with the glue, make a sort of lid from scrap plastic that you can fix over it to stop it moving.

      PS I forgot to mention. With my He219 which needs a LOT of weight, I filled every hollow space in front of the main wheels with weights, including the hollow nosewheel, the cockpit radio, some lead strip behind the control panel and between the cockpit walls and fuselage sides. Not sure how many spaces you'll find on your A10, but it's worth a look.

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      • Guest

        #18
        Thanks Dave, good idea to find every available space.

        I'm trying to resist the temptation of starting the A-10 but I've put so many layers of paint on my Sea King build that it's going to take a while to harden up fully. Sounds like a perfect excuse to get the ball rolling and see just what nooks and crannies I can find to cram weight into.

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        • wotan
          SMF Supporters
          • May 2018
          • 1150

          #19
          Andy

          I recently built this A 10 and I used big fishing weights hot glued into the nose. It just about balanced the thing.



          John

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          • Guest

            #20
            Thanks John, hot glue - genius!

            I've actually made a start with a dry fit (couldn't help myself!) and there seems to be much more space than the instructions indicate, so I may be worrying over nothing. Still lots of good advice given here though.

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            • rtfoe
              SMF Supporters
              • Apr 2018
              • 9073

              #21
              Hi Andy,

              At times I would use two part putty to hold the lead. The putty is also acts as weight and it can fill the empty places leaft by the lead piece.. Follow Jakkos suggestion for testing. I normally use a wooden dowel to balance at the point of the rear wheel.

              Cheers,
              Richard

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              • Tim Marlow
                SMF Supporters
                • Apr 2018
                • 18892
                • Tim
                • Somerset UK

                #22
                Two part epoxy works as well.....you can make a sort of lead treacle out of it :thumb2:

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                • Guest

                  #23
                  Thanks again for the tips.

                  For speaker cabinets I used to make a "heavy slop" out of polyester resin, lead shot, filler powder, and sometime short fibreglass strands for added strength. I fear the exothermic reaction of the resin would be far too much for a plastic model though and I'd and up with a distorted mess :smiling5:

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                  • rtfoe
                    SMF Supporters
                    • Apr 2018
                    • 9073

                    #24
                    Two part clay putty doesn't heat up. Worth a try. Works for me everytime

                    Cheers,
                    Richard

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