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Gluing Pho

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  • Guest

    #1

    Gluing Pho

    Gluing Photo etched parts

    Hi All

    Well, I have several models on the go at the moment, the second model since I returned to modelling is nearing completion, I will post pictures so I can get some opinions on what I'm doing wrong/right but I have a question regarding the gluing of small photo etched parts to plastic especially in the cockpit.

    What do you good people use?

    I tried cyna"whatisname" (superglue!) and this was a complete nightmare to get the really small parts to stick. I bought the really thin stuff on recomendation of the model shop but the stuff either didnt come out of the bottle or covered the entire area as it sloshed out!

    I know it comes in three levels of thickness, which is best or is there something else I should be using?

    Advice always welcome....
  • Guest

    #2
    Hi there,

    I would keep the thin stuff for long sections where you can make good use of the capillary action.

    For small stuff, the size that demands tweezers, squeeze a couple of drops onto a pieces of scrap and dip the new part so that the back just gets a wetting, then transfer to the model.

    You can use any grade doing it this way but i now prefer the thick stuff as it tends to stand up on the scrap, making the whole process a little easier. It also stays put on the scrap so you get less sticky finger syndrome when you forget and try to move it to a safe place.

    If the parts are really small i use a dressmakers pin to transfer the glue to the model then affix the new part with the tweezers/ other pin.

    Trying to glue direct from the tube (especially so with the thin stuff) is fraught with danger, though it can be done if you use the extensions that sometimes come with the glue. I find them of limited use as the glue is difficult to see.

    J.

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    • Guest

      #3
      Many thanks for that.....

      What brand do you prefer or does it not really make a difference?

      Tim.

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      • Guest

        #4
        I find little difference to be honest.

        I have tried the three or four tube packs from the likes of the 'Poundshop' type of store, the Multi-pack things (about 20 tubes ) and the bottles that you have come across.

        As the stuff tends to go 'off' quite readily, i prefer to get the "3 for a pound" type and put the unused ones in the fridge until they are required. The really cheap multi-pack tubes were rubbish, only the first one or two actually worked (they all seem to suffer from limited shelf life). The bottles have proved the better buy but are not so easy to come by, i generally get mine from a show where all the stall holders seem to sell the same stuff.

        The "Loctite " brand is very good stuff, is expensive and also suffers from shelf life. I use it only when working a particularly difficult medium such as fixing plastic strip to poly-propelene (drain-pipe).

        The current (bottle) batch is branded "Tufloc" and the thick stuff is performing well after five months, i may even get to finish the bottle before the glue runs out!

        J.

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        • Guest

          #5
          I agree with using the superglue 'Gel'. It is a lot easier to manage and a blob on a piece of scrap can be used to dip the parts in on the tweezers before transferring them directly to the model. I also find the gel seems to hold that bit better, especially if you are glueing to wood which soaks up the liquid very quickly.

          I use B&Q's own gel in a squeezy applicator.

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