so i got my micro foil adhesive this past week and practiced dry foiling with no adhesive rubbing with Q tips and tooth picks to get the feel of how finiky the stuff is. i just taped it to the side of a wing and started rubbing out fron the middle. wow this stuff is cool. ive got some pics of my elevator wing. not done compleately it i a textured section so i wanted to show you i didnt scerw up with all the bumps of the texture. the photos are bad because my batterys are dead for my camera so bare with me. so far this is is an absolute BLAST! a must try. the only draw back is when guys write have lots of new blades they mean it. they dull fast. 1 blade =ed 2 elevators like this both sides. also why are my pics sooooo wide???
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NICE!!! Your maybe not the madman I envisioned!!! Is this proving to be very difficult?Comment
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well, my thoughts were that because every one gose to alclad II that foiling was very dificult, tedious and expert only teritory. but to my suprise its not that bad. yes there is planning involved. where to meet two pices together in a seam etc. keeping the pices with no finger prints where the glue is going to be applied. mabye im speeking to early but its not as hard as i anticipated. its fun rubbing on the aluminum. its the oppisit of un wrapping a x-mas gift lol. u are wraping the gift. the elevators took me about 2hrs. to do both as far in the pics. im now concidering to do another in foil. but i mustfinish what ive started ill be posting as i build. there was no painting on the elevators so that why i did them first.Originally posted by \Comment
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so ill be posting some new pics of my progerss soon. the thing ive found to be the most trying is the front nose gun turret and the front engine cowl. the problem bieng there are no seams to hide pice's. at first i thought about trying to blend the first aluminum pice into the plastic to reduce the amount of "lip" it would create. then place the second over the first by say 1/32 (1mm) or so then sand to a smooth finish. the problem is the amount of overlap. as you sand the aluminum foil you are trying to taper the aluminum to "blend" it. what happens is you get it soo thin you actually get it to start to tear and frey the edge and then the foi adhesive starts to show because yu have removed the foil on top. the tecniqe wasn't totaly wrong it lyes within the over lap. i went to trying out diffent was to create a "invisible" seam. you can not create a invisible seam but you can get really close. to fool the eye at say a foot away. so the way i found is to lay your frist down get it smooth then take 1000 grit or so and taper the edge a bit not too much or you risk fraying the edge then you lay the second pice downbut give your self 1/16 (1.5 mm) of over lap next rub down the two mating pices with the Q-tip so you can see the edge of the first then take a new blade and gently run along that seam you can go a little bit on top of the first remove the excess. now take your 1000 Gr. and sand the seam lightly. you wil sand off the over lap and the seam will be butted right up to the first. then take aluminum polish and buff with a Q-tip. then remove the polish with a soft cloth. and look at the seam to see if you need to hit a lip again or not. and the seam will be all but gone. i wil post my front engine cowl i did this technique on. i feel it looks really good. let me know what you guys think if there is any more questions i will try my best to awnser. i used house hold aluminum foil with micro foil adhesive this stuff works verry well. ill post pics tomorrow.Comment
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this is an interesting thread and enjoying read it
Just a thought as some model car/bike parts are chromed or silvered could any local plating shops coat it then possibly dull them down if they're to brightComment
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well you would have to see if the plating shop dose plastic first. then if it is too bright, it depends on the look you are trying to achive but posibly a wash on top to darken or take some of the briliance out of the chrome would be an option. or if you are going for a scrapper look scotch brite or fine steel wool is a way to put a patina on the chrome. but one thing i would caution on is plastic bends and chrome dosn't. so if it is a exaust on a bike or somthing frail and bendy i would watch how you handle it. you may run the risk of cracking the plating. i run into this with buffing the aluminum to a shine if i handle it to agressively it will wrinkle where it was smooth but i can lay it back down plating you wont. im wondering if food colouring and johnsons future will give a purple blue hue to a chrome finish like it has been really driven.Comment
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What do you think of my USS MOFFETT DD362 build.
[ATTACH]17347.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17348.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17349.IPB[/ATTACH]
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that's really interesting i dont know a whole lot about boats. so ill ask what your final plans are with it. are you leaving it all bare or are you going to make it like a diorama in a ship yard? i thought boats were a totaly painted thing. its cool to see it all in meatal. looks like a roll's worth of foil lol. how many hrs do you figure you have invested?Comment
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here are the latest doings. in some pics you may see the line where i joined two pices the join line is just after the radius arround the circumfrance.
[ATTACH]17350.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17351.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17352.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17353.IPB[/ATTACH]
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Here she is finished on the water.
[ATTACH]17354.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]17355.IPB[/ATTACH]
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so you built the ship out of aluminum then? not foiling a plastic one. if you biult it out of aluminum that is pretty awesome.Comment
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The material is called Lithoplate, its used in the printing industry, its a soft like aluminium, easily bent and shaped, nice for curved plates on a hull.Comment
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Outstanding!!!!!!!!!!:yeahbaby:Comment
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Nice work there Ron,
First time I have ever seen Litho plate used on ships but your model looks fantastic, love the pics on the water too !!
Regards......Mark.Comment
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