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Compatibility, Undercoats and Overcoats?

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  • Guest

    #1

    Compatibility, Undercoats and Overcoats?

    I have a nice camoflage scheme applied to my 1/48th scale P38 Lightning. I used a combination of Testors dark green enamel and Tamiya acrylic ghost grey for the undersides of the model. I'm planning on gloss coating coating the surfaces in preperation for my decal applications. Can I use an acrylic finish such as Humbrol's glosscoat or Future floor finish over the enamel coated surfaces or do I need an oil based glosscoat? I hear a lot about Future but I have never used it in a modelling application. After I'm finished with my decalling process I want to finish coat the model with a dull or satin coat of either oil or acrylic based finish. Are all of these scenerios compatible with one another? ANy recommendations would be graetly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Tom
  • Guest

    #2
    Hi Tom,

    Although I build armour, the basics of this kind of thing remain the same & I know that you'll have no problems with what you propose to do. I would use the Future as your gloss coat as it's self-levelling, cheaper, more user-friendly, and easy to clean the AB. After that you can add a dull/satin coat using either enamels or acrylics. My rule of thumb is always to never apply 2 coats of different formula paint without a buffer coat, such as Future or other varnish. That way, neither paint will adversely interact with the other.

    Look forward to seeing the pics of your Lightning!

    Patrick

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    • Guest

      #3
      Originally posted by \
      Hi Tom,Although I build armour, the basics of this kind of thing remain the same & I know that you'll have no problems with what you propose to do. I would use the Future as your gloss coat as it's self-levelling, cheaper, more user-friendly, and easy to clean the AB. After that you can add a dull/satin coat using either enamels or acrylics. My rule of thumb is always to never apply 2 coats of different formula paint without a buffer coat, such as Future or other varnish. That way, neither paint will adversely interact with the other.

      Look forward to seeing the pics of your Lightning!

      Patrick
      Hey Patrick,

      Thanks for the good advice. I will venture forward as planned. I will be sure to post some pics of the P38 once I've got her completed.

      Regards,

      Tom

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      • Guest

        #4
        Hey Pat,

        finally as promised some pics of my p38. The noseart is a custom decal created from a P38 that resides at the Planes of Fame in Chino California. Hope you like it

        [ATTACH]22850.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]22849.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]22848.vB[/ATTACH]

        [ATTACH]29598.IPB[/ATTACH]

        [ATTACH]29599.IPB[/ATTACH]

        [ATTACH]29600.IPB[/ATTACH]





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        • Guest

          #5
          You did a great job there mate! Looks awesome!

          Cheers

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          • Guest

            #6
            Nice job, looks brill.

            Andy

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            • Guest

              #7
              Beautifully built and painted, very high standard the decals are superb.

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              • Guest

                #8
                Brilliant paint job but I particularly like the demarkation line between the upper and lower surfaces on the fuselage sides.

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                • Guest

                  #9
                  Very nice build, I am having no fun with my 1/72 OLD hasegawa P-38 :-(

                  As for you question re the different paint systems, I have now done a few projects where the base coat was either Humbrol enamel, Tamiya acrylic or even a combination of the two covered with humbrol gloss for decals and then dull humbrol for finals. So far no problem at all.We do not have Future or Clear here in SA so I was forced to experiment a little.

                  No idea what the long term effect would be, but if the paint hasn't reacted by now, it most likely will not.

                  I thin my acrylics with tamiya stuff or iso prop and the enamels over that with lacure thinners. You do however have to give the acrylics at least a few days curing time before putting anything over it, otherwizr the texture gets all messed up!

                  Theuns

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