1/32 Eurofighter

[Guest]

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When it says on the side "shake well " that mean a good minute and not less than vallejo paints can go quite gloopy and if you dont shake well it will clog up your airbrush

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[Guest]

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For my own reasons I didnt like the colour barley grey ,it just seemed so dark ,so I settled for vallejo pale grey blue 71046

In the picture it has had 2 coats of paint and also 3 coats of Klear floor varnish. Again it is important now to leave it alone for at least 24 hours.

The problem with such a big plane is that its so easy to knock of the pitot tubes on the front and the tip of the tail.I think I will get a broom handle and stick it up its six to give me a better handle on things.

ugly 6 out

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[stona]

Nice,I know how easy it is to bash a big model,it sometimes feels like the room has shrunk!

Steve

[Guest]

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its times like these that you wonder who was the first person to ever apply a wash to their newly painted airframe and what ever did they have in mind ,Honest love it says do this in the book .

ugly 6 out

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[Guest]

LOL, it is a tad unnerving. I often wonder who first did things and what they were thinking at the time....

[yak face]

[ATTACH]12454[/ATTACH]its times like these that you wonder who was the first person to ever apply a wash to their newly painted airframe and what ever did they have in mind ,Honest love it says do this in the book .

ugly 6 out

hi ugly (one of my less successful chat up lines!) this reminds me of the time i first attempted a wash on a freshly painted 1/48 su 27 flanker, I didnt really know the ins and outs and used an undiluted games workshop ink wash . It looked just like your typhoon,except when i came to rub it off it wouldnt budge. I eventually ruined the paint finish trying to get it off with allsorts of things,nail varnish remover,thinners ,turps etc!! Oh dear!(i think thats what i said! or was it?!) i just had to put it down to experience . cheers tony

[stona]

As we're talking washes,top tip for anyone planning to use the ProModeller variety. Put a few drops of washing up liquid in the bottle before you mix it up to break the surface tension and stop the wash pooling on the model rather than running into all the nooks and crannies.

Steve

[Guest]

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Hello peeps

ive used Mig wash ,only reason is Ive got some mind you I havnt got as much as I had when I started .I may even give it another coat both sides ,what ive found is that its important to let the wash dry completly so that the black in the grooves actually dries in place and dosnt dislodge when you wipe it off like most things you find out as you go along .I am reliably assured that if anything does go wrong its possible to remove it all with a lot of water ,famous last words.If you do get it right the results are worth working for ,and a lot has to do with the preparation as well.

All will be revealled.

ugly 6 out

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[stona]

You are right about letting it dry,and you can always remove it with water and a brush. I always take my time over removing the excess. Sometimes you may overlook a virtually invisible smear of wash in a place where you don't want it. When you apply your next (or final) coat of varnish it will appear much darker and more obvious. I take off what I think is all the excess then walk away,have a cuppa,and come back with the kitchen towel and cotton buds to tidy up.

Cheers

Steve