real glass cockpits?

[Guest]

are there such things as glass canopies for aircraft models? I'm a newbie and yet to work on a canopy but from what I've seen, I'm not really looking forward to it. Well, that's not quite correct, more that I'm concerned about spoiling what I hope will be a good build by a messy canopy. I asume it's much easier to paint canopy structures if glass, and then remove unwanted paint without damage?

Also, maybe I'll change my view later, but it seems to me that Klear on canopies makes them less realistic, or is that just reflections in photo-shots giving that impression?

I know, I have to find out for myself, but the thought just came to me.

Thanks

[Guest]

In no way do I want to put you off any more but I find canopies such an issue that I am considering building very few aircraft once I have completed what I have.

HOWEVER, and yes I did mean to shout however, my problem with canopies is ME. I have seen so many amazingly well masked and painted canopies that I should have no thoughts of it being something that cannot be done. It can but you have to have massive amounts of patience as befits such an important visual part of a kit. I would say get some cheap models and put the hours in masking and painting but from what I have found is the cheaper, or should I say the lower the quality, the kit, the harder it is. If you get a canopy with really sharp defined frame, it is easier to get good sharp masks. If you get a canopy with barley defined frame, it is not as easy.

If you take a look at Steve's JU88 , scroll down page 6 to se the canopy revealed. This is a very complex canopy but it is superbly masked and painted using Tamiya masking tape and a scalpel. read through the thread as Steve describes at some point how he does it.

It is important that you get it right as the eye will be drawn to it but it isn't magic, it is patience, practice and determination to get it right. If your main interest is aircraft, it is a hurdle that just needs to be climbed.

[stona]

Thanks for the kind words Graham. I'd like to add that you should treat a canopy with Klear before you mask it. Klear is removed by itself. If you have any residue from the masking or leakage of paint then both, and the protective Klear coat, can be removed with a cotton bud soaked in Klear,sometimes with the aid of a cocktail stick. A reapplication,by bud will bring it up again.

I don't think the Kleared canopies are unrealistic. Canopies were kept scrupulously clean,something I have heard first hand from an American pilot (Russ Kyler of the 56th FG) and a friend of my mother who served as a WAAF and had a "special pair of knickers",her words, for canopy polishing. In air combat it is vital to see your enemy before he sees you. The smut on your windshield could be that enemy.

Cheers

Steve

Note. Use wooden cocktail sticks as they are softer than the clear styrene and won't score it.I cut the end off at 45 degrees to make a little wedge.

[Guest]

I had a look at your Ju88 Steve, very nice, and the canopy looks very good.. and I am wrong in your case, your canopy does look real. I will be delighted (and somewhat surpised) if I can make my models look as good.

[yak face]

hi mark , welcome to the forum. As graham and steve say you can mask a canopy successfully but its a bit of a pain,unfortunately. However dont forget you can get pre cut canopy masks from companies like eduard and montex, they do masks for all sorts of planes in all scales so for a few quid it can make the job a lot easier. Ive not used them yet but ive got a tamiya mosquito in the stash and i think i might just get a set for it , its got a lot of little windows!!! try hannants.co.uk they stock just about everything. hope this helps , cheers tony

[wonwinglo]

Mark real canopies are made from perspex,or probably a version of these days,perspex has a very unusual look about it as very few are optically perfect,the reason for the use of Klear is to reduce the reflacted light that hits them and looks un-realistic.

For framing the best way if you are unable to paint with a steady hand is to lay insulating tape onto glass,then paint the required colour,then cut into thin strips and apply to the model lifting with a craft knife from the glass surface.

[stona]

Mark real canopies are made from perspex,or probably a version of these days,perspex has a very unusual look about it as very few are optically perfect,the reason for the use of Klear is to reduce the reflacted light that hits them and looks un-realistic.For framing the best way if you are unable to paint with a steady hand is to lay insulating tape onto glass,then paint the required colour,then cut into thin strips and apply to the model lifting with a craft knife from the glass surface.

That can definitely work,particularly at a larger scale. The lower front side windows of the upper canopy of my Ju88 are divided verticaly by strips of painted Tamiya tape. For some reason Revell didn't mould that part of the frame and I only noticed after the model was finished. They missed the sliding windows completely.

A variation is to use strips of suitably coloured decal film which is very thin.Hasegawa actually provided this option in some kits though I still masked and painted. What's that saying about old dogs and new tricks?

Steve

[stona]

I stumbled accross this photograph of a B-24 turret. I think it shows nicely how the plexiglass looked.

Hope this helps

Steve