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  • Guest

    #1

    Frisk film

    The following may be a case of " a bad workman always blames his tools", if so, please feel free to say so!

    I used frisk film to mask the demarcation lines on the top of the wings of my 1/32 lysander. I made sure (so i thought) that I was thorough in pressing the film down well. Unfortunately, when I removed the film there had been "creep through" which I'm going to have to repair with a brush. It is my humble opinion that a) the film doesn't like complex curves b) the film adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the edge down on said curves c) I c**ked it up! d) I'm trying to use it for something that it's not really designed for. Any comments and suggestion what to do in the future to get around this problem would as ever be most welcome and much appreciated.
  • stona
    SMF Supporters
    • Jul 2008
    • 9889

    #2
    I think A and B. I have tried to mask codes with a cut out of the letter with limited success. I now spray the code colour,put a positive of the letter over that and remove it once the camo is done. It seems to work better,less little cut outs and edges to go wrong!

    For camo masking I use Blu-Tac for the outline and fill in with good old Tamiya tape.

    Steve

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    • yak face
      Moderator
      • Jun 2009
      • 13836
      • Tony
      • Sheffield

      #3
      I agree with steve , the frisket is probably not flexible enough , i use the blu tack method although for a sharp edge i use just tamiya tape. At the moment though im just experimenting with microporous tape, you know the stuff used for sticking bandages etc. It seems to be not too sticky and so far has given a clean edge and not let paint seep through, it seems to be good for canopies too as it isnt too thick and is easy to cut with a sharp blade. hope this helps ,cheers tony

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      • Guest

        #4
        I think D. I've only ever used frisk for masking paintings on ard board. It can't do complex curves and generally relies on static more than the adhesive to stay put. Try blu-tac, or good old masking tape that has been stuck to your trousers first, then cut into fine strips for complicated edges. Or buy tamiya tape. I was experimenting the other night and had great success with plumbers PTFE tape for cockpits. Just line either side of one frame, and paint with a brush.

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